That’s Not Real Climbing
- Épisodes
- 71
- Parution
- toutes les deux semaines
- Dernier épisode
- 9 Nov 2026
À propos du podcast
A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.
Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport!
For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.
Licence : Jinni Xia 2023
Épisodes 71
Danaan Markey - Is PCL Good for Climbing??
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Danaan is a Pro Climbing League (PCL) co-founder and they just released pre-sale tickets for the 2027 …
Notes de l’épisode
Danaan is a Pro Climbing League (PCL) co-founder and they just released pre-sale tickets for the 2027 season. In this episode, we’ll hear about the goal of PCL, learn how they financed the huge prize pool, get responses to some of the biggest critiques of their first London comp, and we’ll talk about how comp climbing is ethical climbing.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:13 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:03 - Athlete house at boulder fest
6:22 - The birth of PCL
13:22 - All the people who made PCL possible
17:52 - They're already setting for PCL now...
21:05 - The Goal of PCL
24:03 - How to make climbing into a career
28:06 - How do you afford PCL?
32:30 - Criticism 1: Speed bouldering?
39:04 - Nobody cares about climbing, it's about competition
47:32 - Criticism 2: No seeding round streamed?
50:38 - Critique 3: Was there too much athlete interview?
52:40 - 2027 season format
59:26 - Ideal schedule
1:02:55 - Comp climbing is ethical climbing??
1:13:42 - AUDIENCE Q: Plans for non-boulder formats?
1:15:54 - AUDIENCE Q: Thoughts on not seeing a slower climber excel in this format?
1:16:31 - AUDIENCE Q: Any restrictions from World Climbing on PCL?
1:17:40 - AUDIENCE Q: Geriatrics PCL??
1:19:13 - Important comp dates!
Chapitres (21)
Charlie Schreiber - TRAIN Like a World Cup Climber
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Charlie is the founder of Paradigm Climbing and he has been coaching climbing athletes from the beginner …
Notes de l’épisode
Charlie is the founder of Paradigm Climbing and he has been coaching climbing athletes from the beginner to elite level for over 17 years. In this episode, we’ll hear about a suspicious supplement sponsorship he had when he was a kid, what his world cup experience was like back in the day, why he thinks competition climbing has turned way too much into not real climbing, and of course everything coaching related.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:27 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:18 - Insane schedule
7:02 - Getting into climbing, competing, and coaching
11:31 - Sketchy sugar daddy athlete sponsorship??
17:05 - How he would coach his younger self
22:10 - Strengths and weaknesses
26:57 - His experience competing at world cups
36:14 - Coaching goals
38:21 - How personalized does coaching need to be?
52:09 - How to learn movement
55:05 - The importance of spray wall
1:06:18 - AUDIENCE Q: How to improve as a coach?
1:08:48 - World Climbing Setting is too far gone?
1:16:58 - What the US is doing wrong with training
1:22:52 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you tell when a kid will be a v17 climber?
1:27:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Fingerboarding vs board climbing?
1:29:24 - AUDIENCE Q: How to train big dynes?
1:32:09 - AUDIENCE Q: Dream clients?
1:35:14 - Words of wisdom and where to find Charlie
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Ardch Intrachupongse - Thailand Climbing EXPOSED
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Ardch is a boulderer for the Thailand team, and he has made semis several times in World Climbing. In this …
Notes de l’épisode
Ardch is a boulderer for the Thailand team, and he has made semis several times in World Climbing. In this episode, we’ll hear why he thinks climbing is performative in Thailand, why it’s hard to grow climbing as a spectator sport, and we’ll talk about where we draw the line on setting that is too trendy. Hope you’re ready for some hot takes and strong opinions in this one!
Guest links:
Reference links:
PCL Bouldering Project Qualifiers
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:16 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:07 - Winning Seattle Boulderfest + PCL
9:31 - Moving to the US, getting into climbing
15:47 - Performative climbing in Thailand?
25:49 - Lack of World Climbing level Thai climbers
33:15 - Should it become a D1 sport in the USA?
39:13 - How to grow climbing
47:39 - Goodbye dirtbags
51:03 - Outdoor paddle dynos
58:20 - What climbing trend goes TOO FAR?
1:03:15 - What does it take to make semis and finals in world climbing?
1:12:29 - Salt Lake City and Mental Pressure
1:15:05 - Why is the mens field so unpredictable?
1:20:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Wow factor to making finals?
1:25:42 - Glazing Sorato
1:28:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Most underdeveloped part of climbing?
1:31:27 - Words of wisdom and where to find Arch
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Bharath + Vishak - The UNIQUE Challenges of Team India
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Bharath and Vishak are climbers from team India who now have experience at several world series events. In …
Notes de l’épisode
Bharath and Vishak are climbers from team India who now have experience at several world series events. In this episode, we’ll hear about the unique challenges they face climbing and training in India, some crazy stories about the worst bouldering nationals ever, why they think the average age for comp climbing will get older, and how they aim to grow climbing in India by routesetting and making climbing shoes.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:28 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:19 - Training in Japan
7:01 - Getting into climbing and competing
15:10 - India climbing scene then vs now
16:57 - The state of setting in India
23:36 - The worst comp EVER
28:31 - Outdoor climbing in India
30:11 - What happens in World Climbing ISO
36:11 - Best tips from pro climbers
40:47 - Give Bharath some skin advice please!
44:00 - Team dynamics in ISO
47:21 - Crazy coaching practices in India
52:34 - Will comp climbing stop being so young??
1:00:54 - New school moves and coordination rock climbs?!
1:03:10 - Making climbing shoes
1:09:35 - Balancing training and setting
1:13:08 - Asia cup goal
1:17:57 - AUDIENCE Q: What do you wish you knew before you started?
1:21:37 - AUDIENCE Q: Dealing with plateaus and injury?
1:24:11 - AUDIENCE Q: Getting through tenosynovitis?
1:26:48 - AUDIENCE Q: What is your inspiration to keep going?
1:29:16 - AUDIENCE Q: Plans for a Youtube channel?
1:31:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Sneaking out of boarding school?
1:33:48 - Words of wisdom
1:39:37 - Where to find Bharath and Vishak
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Lučka Rakovec - Competing Post-Thyroid Cancer
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Lučka is a lead climber from Slovenia who recently won bronze at the European championships and came back …
Notes de l’épisode
Lučka is a lead climber from Slovenia who recently won bronze at the European championships and came back to the world climbing scene after undergoing cancer-removing surgery in 2025. In this episode, we’ll hear about how her cancer diagnosis affected her climbing, training, and mental health, we’ll learn about the Slovenian team, and we’ll put together a tier list for the worst things that can happen in a lead comp.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:29 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:24 - Finger injury before European champs
5:54 - Getting into climbing and competing
11:11 - Reading and memorizing the lead route
15:38 - Ranking the worst things to happen during a lead route
20:02 - Training plan
22:11 - Thyroid cancer diagnosis + emetaphobia
31:20 - How long it took to return to climbing
35:50 - The mental effect of returning to competition
38:56 - Does the Slovenian team train with Janja?
42:53 - Dating within the team
45:50 - 2028 Olympic hopes?
47:58 - Post-climbing plans?
53:12 - Future dog plans
56:53 - AUDIENCE Q: Are you afraid of falling?
1:00:15 - AUDIENCE Q: Previous Slovenian legends?
1:01:36 - AUDIENCE Q: How many routes and what difficulty in 1 session?
1:05:53 - Where to find Lucka
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Ella Fisher - No Fancy Training Facility? No Problem.
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Ella is a lead climber on team USA who made her first world series finals earlier this year in Prague! In …
Notes de l’épisode
Ella is a lead climber on team USA who made her first world series finals earlier this year in Prague! In this episode, we’ll learn about how she climbs the same lead routes all year round to train in Arizona, why she doesn’t want to move to Salt Lake City despite that, how a simple vitamin deficiency wrecked her body for a whole year, and how she went from placing 40th in world cups to making semis and finals in 1 year.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Check out https://comp.rocks for climbing competitions near you! (Currently USA only)
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:42 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:33 - Preparing for Koper
10:36 - Starting climbing at 3
14:03 - Getting coached by her dad
20:09 - Fitness is all that matters for lead?
24:42 - Why she doesn't want to move to SLC
30:14 - Beta video before lead quails!!!
34:36 - Seeing a dyno in a lead route
35:58 - First WS finals experience
41:33 - 40th place to making finals in 1 year
44:38 - Training routine
49:52 - Ella LOVES autobelays!
57:13 - Youth climbers don't need to hang board
59:41 - A year of health issues
1:10:08 - Upcoming goals
1:13:25 - Balancing training with coaching and college
1:19:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you deal with pressure?
1:21:46 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you do fantasy climbing league?
1:22:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Would you ever go back to Schwandorf?
1:29:33 - Where to find Ella
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi - Indonesian Speed Climbing DOMINANCE
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Robby is a speed climber from Indonesia who has already gotten 2 silver medals in the world series season …
Notes de l’épisode
Robby is a speed climber from Indonesia who has already gotten 2 silver medals in the world series season this year! In this episode, we’ll learn about the climbing scene in Indonesia, speed climbing rituals and whether they’re actually helpful, we’ll hear this thoughts on the 4 lane and speed relay formats, and we’ll get insight into how he got so good at speed climbing after only training it consistently for 3 years.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Robby's favorite speed moment - Sam's WR
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:37 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:28 - Getting medals in Europe
3:51 - Only been seriously speed training for 3 years?!
10:33 - Breaking plateaus
15:26 - Ritual before each speed run
21:15 - What's more important: Speed or consistency?
22:58 - What speed training looks like
28:57 - Opinion on relay format
31:40 - How team selection works
37:23 - The surprises that come with 4 lanes
39:27 - Indonesia climbing scene
45:44 - 2027 goals and lessons from Sam Watson + Zhao Yicheng
51:17 - Olympic dreams
52:15 - Hobbies and studying
53:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you handle burnout?
56:57 - AUDIENCE Q: How did you improve so fast?
59:11 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you breathe during a speed run?
1:00:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you train other sports?
1:01:30 - AUDIENCE Q: Describe your previous coach?
1:03:48 - Where to find Robby
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Meagan + C Lad - SPONSORED belayers?!
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Meagan Knecht and C Lad are both level 5 belayers in the USA who are also helping out with belay training …
Notes de l’épisode
Meagan Knecht and C Lad are both level 5 belayers in the USA who are also helping out with belay training videos for World Climbing. In this episode, we’ll debunk the myth that women can’t belay men or heavier climbers, we’ll learn about the problems with Assisted Braking Device (ABD)requirements in gyms, and of course, we'll talk about how to get into high level belaying and how they became SPONSORED belayers thanks to Trango.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Wujiang 2025 Belayer Aiding Climber
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:29 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:19 - Excitement for Pan-American series
4:21 - Getting into climbing and belaying
14:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between an avg vs elite belayer?
20:26 - Work that allows the flexibility for travel
22:48 - How to get into belaying at a high level
27:43 - Setting the standard for World Climbing
34:36 - ATC vs ABDs in gyms
39:06 - The belayer's unique pivotal role
43:41 - Snugroping?
45:28 - Athlete interactions
48:00 - Dual-belay system
52:44 - Is it too late to become an Olympics belayer?
56:42 - Being sponsored as belayers
1:01:54 - Why is belaying para the best?
1:08:46 - Routesetting that makes belaying harder
1:14:25 - AUDIENCE Q: What's it like to walk up to an Olympian and belay them?
1:16:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite venue to belay at?
1:18:33 - Where to find the beladies and words of wisdom
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Max Ayrton - "Alternative" Climbing Moves Are SO In
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Max is a World Climbing routesetter from Great Britain who most recently set for the bouldering world …
Notes de l’épisode
Max is a World Climbing routesetter from Great Britain who most recently set for the bouldering world series in Bern 2026 and will be setting for Salt Lake in October as well. In this episode, we’ll learn about hold shaping, what happened when the Bern finals boulders got leaked early online, whether world cup routesetters can actually climb the boulders they set, and we’ll hear about his extremely hot take on “alternative” climbing moves...I had no idea that he was the infamous cartwheel boulder setter.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:28 - Climbing, competing, setting background
7:00 - World climbing setting levels
10:44 - Bern Finals boulders got leaked
15:24 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it easier setting in a climate-controlled venue?
18:24 - What is the perfect round?
22:02 - AUDIENCE Q: What guidance does world climbing give for setters?
24:19 - Forerunning process
29:26 - Setting "unconventional" moves
34:46 - OMG!! This is the OG cartwheel guy!!
38:00 - The divergence of indoor/comp climbing from outdoors
42:34 - Zones vs tops point change
44:53 - Starting Contact Holds with Alex Waterhouse
52:55 - AUDIENCE Q: What's Alex Waterhouse up to?!
54:26 - AUDIENCE Q: Is there any consideration for the belayer when setting?
59:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Planning vs improvising problems?
1:00:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Will the Christmas Yule log comp be on this year?
1:02:29 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite member of house 51?
1:03:21 - Words of wisdom and where to find Max
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Samuel Richard - New School Climbers are LOCKED IN
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Sam is an 18 year old French boulderer who just recently won bronze at the 2026 Madrid world climbing …
Notes de l’épisode
Sam is an 18 year old French boulderer who just recently won bronze at the 2026 Madrid world climbing series. You may also know him as the youngest person to ever do v17. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the world of new school climbing, how regimented routines and being locked in could push climbing further than ever before, and how he may want to just give up climbing one day.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:26 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:17 - Reflecting on Madrid World Series
6:40 - Can you see results in ISO?
9:31 - Starting climbing at age 2
12:46 - Climbing strengths and weaknesses
16:17 - Fearlessness for new school climbing
22:05 - French team training and powering out
24:30 - French Team Selection
29:36 - Qualis is the most physical round
31:37 - "Sam Richard" as a persona
35:19 - Getting energy from the audience
38:41 - Climbing journal
43:49 - Hot take: outdoor climbing is better than indoor?
51:35 - Youngest person to climb v17?
53:08 - Climbing optimization
57:13 - Quitting climbing for running...
1:01:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the transition from youth to senior?
1:05:13 - AUDIENCE Q: How to hype yourself up?
1:07:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the bromance between you, Mejdi, and Manu?
1:10:05 - Words of widsom and where to find Sam
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Andy McVittie - The Kids are Climbing TOO MUCH!
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Andy is a climbing PT and this is his second time on the podcast. This time, he’s here with new research …
Notes de l’épisode
Andy is a climbing PT and this is his second time on the podcast. This time, he’s here with new research to talk about why youth climbers are maybe overdoing it with the climbing training, what early arthritis looks like, and the surprising dangers of outdoor climbing when it comes to competition climbers.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:05 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:45 - Spain trip and watching PCL
4:44 - Getting into climbing and PT
8:00 - Youth getting into competing more?
9:10 - Are youth climber overtraining?
11:28 - Outcome of growth plate fractures
16:43 - Youth Climbers very rarely get injured
21:28 - Youth climbers should not specialize in climbing
32:03 - What does arthritis look like?
37:00 - Is synovitis a sign of future arthritis?
38:55 - Injuries are actually coming from outdoor climbing....
46:32 - Max Milne's Foot Injury
49:53 - Are injury rates increasing within comp climbers?
52:53 - AUDIENCE Q: Common adult injuries breaking into the comp scene?
59:48 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you even climb with hyper mobility?
1:06:54 - Words of wisdom and where to find Andy
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Emil + Felix Abrahamsson - ANNOUNCING Fantasy Climbing League!
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!You likely know Emil from being one of the OG climbing Youtubers who has also competed in a few world cups …
Notes de l’épisode
You likely know Emil from being one of the OG climbing Youtubers who has also competed in a few world cups for Sweden. With his brother, Felix, they have started a new Fantasy Climbing League platform! In this episode, we’ll learn about how the Fantasy Climbing League works, how they feel about sports gambling in climbing, who their top picks are for their teams, and their predictions for all things competition.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:01 - Living in Arco
5:22 - Starting climbing and competing
14:26 - Existential AI talk
17:14 - Fantasy Climbing League overview
21:10 - They've never played fantasy sports before!!
22:47 - Drafting strategy
25:37 - Are fantasy leagues gambling-adjacent??
33:36 - Top picks of the season
42:07 - Are injury comebacks good picks?
45:13 - Janja vs Ai debate
52:26 - Will Tomoa have a downfall?!
1:00:03 - Tomoa v Meichi?
1:02:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What style of comp climbing would change the results the most?
1:10:21 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the future of comp climbing look like?
1:13:38 - AUDIENCE Q: What expectations should a comp beginner have?
1:18:04 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your favorite WoW dungeon?
1:19:05 - Join Fantasy Climbing League ASAP!!!
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Sam Avezou - The SECRETS to French Climbing
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Sam is a French boulder and lead climber who has medals from several world cups and competed alongside his …
Notes de l’épisode
Sam is a French boulder and lead climber who has medals from several world cups and competed alongside his sister, Zelia at the Paris Olympics! In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like growing up in a climbing family, tips for climbing as a short king, why he struggled in the 2025 season, and how he self-coaches.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:34 - His mother still competing at 42 years old
7:45 - Getting into climbing and competing
9:31 - AUDIENCE Q: Did growing up in a climbing family add pressure?
12:52 - Struggling between youth and senior circuits
16:51 - Rough 2025 season
22:53 - 2028 Olympics strategy
26:37 - Being a short king
31:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for short kings?
35:41 - Training with the French team
37:51 - AUDIENCE Q: how do you self coach?
41:21 - Training only with climbing
45:21 - Gyms worth visiting in Paris
47:05 - Secrets to French slab
51:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What are you thinking about when climbing?
56:06 - Mental game
58:41 - 2026 goals
1:01:22 - AUDIENCE Q: Playing guitar?
1:04:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you make a living climbing?
1:08:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How to gain finger strength?
1:12:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Recovery routine?
1:15:56 - Where to find Sam
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Jackie Hueftle - The MASTERMIND Behind PCL Routesetting
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Jackie was the routesetting director at the Pro Climbing League (PCL) comp and is also the co-founder of …
Notes de l’épisode
Jackie was the routesetting director at the Pro Climbing League (PCL) comp and is also the co-founder of Kilter! In this episode, we’ll learn more about the unique challenges that came with setting for PCL, why she thinks it’s important to have more women setting for women’s comps, and how YOU could maybe try climbing the same exact boulders set at PCL.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:20 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:00 - Still cleaning up from PCL
5:42 - Interesting Kilter free-standing option
7:34 - Getting into climbing, setting, and Kilter
13:38 - The political path to becoming an IFSC setter
15:34 - Starting the Woman Up Comps
20:00 - What grade do you need to climb to be a route setter?
22:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How did you build the PCL routesetting team?
28:46 - What made setting different for PCL
32:09 - How to get separation
36:30 - AUDIENCE Q: Was this speed bouldering, was women's setting too easy?
41:57 - Is sanding down holds fair?!
43:47 - Why it's hard to calibrate for female competitors
51:16 - How boulder changeover worked
55:37 - The slab that didn't get shown
58:24 - Different competition strategies
1:03:27 - AUDIENCE Q: Harder to gauge setting than World Cup?
1:04:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did the setting matter more than a World Cup?
1:07:04 - AUDIENCE Q: Mixed gender events in the future?
1:09:13 - AUDIENCE Q: idea - 2 betas per boulder?
1:11:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Are setters more impressed or annoyed by beta breaks?
1:17:23 - AUDIENCE Q: What makes Kilter stand out?
1:22:30 - Underrated hold?
1:25:02 - Shoutouts and long work hours
1:26:51 - YOU can reset the PCL climbs and experience them!
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Mickael Mawem - An HONEST talk about money in climbing
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Mickael is a french boulderer and he is the bouldering world champ from Bern 2023. In this episode, we …
Notes de l’épisode
Mickael is a french boulderer and he is the bouldering world champ from Bern 2023. In this episode, we have an extremely honest conversation about how growing up poor motivated him to make money as a climber, why he stuck with climbing despite the lack of financial prospects, what his training looks like which includes warming up with 80 pull-ups, and of course, what happened during the Bern world champ finals. Shoutout to Madrock for hosting this interview at their headquarters!
Guest links:
Reference links:
Climbing with Jonathan Sin Video
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
3:46 - Starting climbing with his brother Bassa
7:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Being one of the few black climbers in the IFSC
13:39 - Affording climbing when growing up poor
24:31 - Pro climbing only pays enough for the present
28:10 - Why he would not choose climbing in hindsight
30:51 - Why he still chose climbing
34:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Will you ever compete again in the IFSC?
38:33 - The goal: be rich
45:25 - Bern World Champs finals boulders
53:26 - Encountering no-tex for the first time ever
1:01:59 - Mickael's crazy pull up training
1:06:12 - How to work on your technique
1:11:47 - The secret to French slab
1:14:28 - Why he trains alone
1:21:59 - Keeping up with the evolution of climbing
1:25:44 - His future in climbing?
1:31:01 - New climbing goal
1:33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Who were your role models growing up?
1:34:46 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your family like?
1:39:28 - AUDIENCE Q: How to maintain strength without getting injured?
1:44:50 - Where to find Mickael
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Mo Beck - UNRETIRING for the Paralympic Dreams
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Mo is a paraclimber in the AU2 class, and she is trying to qualify for the 2028 Paralympics! She has been …
Notes de l’épisode
Mo is a paraclimber in the AU2 class, and she is trying to qualify for the 2028 Paralympics! She has been climbing for over 22 years and had actually retired from competing…until hearing about the Paralympics. In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like climbing with a stump, whether outdoor, indoor, or comp setting is most friendly to her impairment, we’ll talk about petty drama in the community, and what sport shopping is in the Paralympics.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:59 - Lifting at a bro-y gym
3:28 - The 'stump' impairment
7:40 - Getting into climbing and competing
13:39 - Thoughts on gym setting for her stump
22:10 - Becoming a real sport means drama
28:16 - "Training" back then vs real training now
29:29 - World Cup appearances 2026 and 2027
30:55 - What we know about Paralympics qualifications
32:18 - How the Paralympics have changed paraclimbing
35:49 - Paralympic "Sport shopping"
38:09 - Heartbreak over which sport classes got chosen for the Paralympics
42:17 - What her training will look like to qualify at 39 years old
46:44 - Audience Q: What does the process look like to qualify for Paralympics?
48:59 - Dealing with comp nerves
50:49 - Is outdoor climbing more friendly for her stump?
52:38 - Outdoor projects and first ascents
58:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite comp memory?
1:01:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Podium cupcake story?
1:03:20 - AUDIENCE Q: Getting sponsored by North Face and tips for getting sponsors
1:06:20 - Words of wisdom and where to find Mo
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Rachel Carr - No high-level FEMALE COACHES??
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Rachel is a Team GB coach and also Erin McNeice’s personal coach! She started as an athlete and competed …
Notes de l’épisode
Rachel is a Team GB coach and also Erin McNeice’s personal coach! She started as an athlete and competed in youth worlds, but moved down the coaching path shortly after. In this episode, we’ll talk about performance anxiety as an athlete, the difficulties she faced being taken seriously as a young female coach, and we’ll get insight into team GB’s training as well as Erin’s insanely huge team of coaches.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:03 - Getting ready for British Bouldering Champs
4:41 - Performance anxiety as an athlete
8:59 - Being "realistic" on your performance
13:46 - Becoming a coach
15:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between coaching youth vs senior?
20:48 - Weirdness of coaching your past competition
23:47 - Lack of trust in female coaches
31:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What advice would you give to aspiring female coaches?
34:29 - Erin's crazy huge team of coaches!
40:23 - Team GB's philosophy on training style
43:48 - Erin's 1 weird weakness...
45:47 - Overrated and underrated training techniques?
50:17 - Climbing goals
53:57 - What's better than coaching at the Olympics?
56:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Why was GB Climbing funding so bad?
58:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Team GB is so strong right now, how has that impacted camaraderie amongst athletes?
1:03:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you coach the mental side of competition?
1:07:53 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you think new comps like PCL will impact the scene for athletes and coaches?
1:10:05 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for new coaches?
1:12:47 - Where to find Rachel
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Emma Edwards - Prague Finals DISASTER!
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Emma is a boulderer on Team GB. 2025 was her debut in the senior world cup circuit and she already made a …
Notes de l’épisode
Emma is a boulderer on Team GB. 2025 was her debut in the senior world cup circuit and she already made a world cup finals! However, if you don’t recognize her, it may be because that was Prague where her finals round got rained out. In this episode, we’ll go over ALL the mishaps that happened at Prague including an allergic reaction, and we’ll learn about her training schedule, team GB, the climbing culture in commercial gyms, and how often she goes through climbing shoes, which was MIND BLOWING.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:31 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:11 - My annual stretching resolution
5:29 - Used to do 6 days on 1 day off?!
9:29 - Getting into climbing and competing
11:47 - First year in the Senior Circuit
14:28 - Starstruck warming up next to Miho & Janja
16:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Advice for youth climbers transitioning to senior?
17:02 - Climbing styles
20:12 - Prague allergic reaction disaster
24:59 - Prague finals getting rained out
27:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you feel about the mental side of comp climbing?
29:51 - Pretty decent prize money! :o
31:40 - Being a taller climber
32:45 - Team GB training in commercial gyms
38:09 - British Youtube + Zoella
39:47 - Season expectations?
42:14 - Toxic Gym Culture?
46:45 - Outdoor Climbing
47:55 - Enjoying sedentary activities
50:29 - Trying to balance training with school
53:27 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you decide what gyms to train at?
55:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Making climbing shoes last?
59:09 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite boulder from Brussels European cup?
1:00:35 - AUDIENCE Q: What's the difference between TC and world cups?
1:02:42 - AUDIENCE Q: Does your brother climb harder than you yet?
1:04:43 - Words of wisdom and where to find Emma
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Charlie Boscoe - Founding a BRAND NEW Bouldering Series
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!This is Charlie’s second time on the podcast and he’s back with a big announcement! For those who aren’t …
Notes de l’épisode
This is Charlie’s second time on the podcast and he’s back with a big announcement! For those who aren’t familiar, Charlie preceded Matt Groom as the IFSC/World Climbing commentator. This time, he’s back to talk about the brand new competition series, Pro Climbing League. In this episode, we’ll go over all the details of what a PCL competition will look like, the challenges they faced the past 5 years putting this together, and I’m diving into all the finances as well.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Solo Documentary (Kayaking Story)
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:13 - PCL test event
3:32 - IFSC/World Climbing Background
6:17 - What is Pro Climbing League?
11:18 - Live routesetting during a competition
15:21 - YOU may be able to compete!
19:25 - Hardest part of setting up a climbing league
24:25 - Why PCL was started
29:16 - AUDIENCE Q: What prompted the head to head format?
34:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did you consult with athletes for this format?
40:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Challenges broadcasting this comp?
44:22 - Getting sponsor money for the league
47:08 - Most expensive part
53:00 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the prize money look like?
1:00:07 - I'm addicted to the concept of sports betting
1:05:08 - What does success look like?
1:08:51 - AUDIENCE Q: Future schedule and locations?
1:11:18 - AUDIENCE Q: What aspect of the format excited athletes the most?
1:14:16 - AUDIENCE Q: Will you use adjustable walls for the comp?
1:17:07 - Where to find PCL deets!
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Declan Osgood & Zoe Yi - Fukuoka TEAM Climbing Event TELL-ALL
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Declan and Zoe just competed at the Fukuoka exhibition team event for team USA where they climbed in all 5 …
Notes de l’épisode
Declan and Zoe just competed at the Fukuoka exhibition team event for team USA where they climbed in all 5 boulder and lead rounds! In this episode, we’ll learn about their unorthodox climbing training program here in San Diego, how team selection and strategy worked at Fukuoka, and whether there was added pressure climbing with a team and coach present.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Yank n yard stream: Highball boulders comp
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:03 - Starting climbing and competing
4:48 - Strength training BAD?!
10:18 - Japan traveling
11:50 - Fukuoka team event selection process
14:28 - Difficulty of the climbs
18:37 - Talking to the coach during the comp
20:59 - Pressure climbing with a coach and teammates
23:51 - Team competition strategies
28:08 - 5 rounds in 3 days
31:06 - First time competing on IFSC livestream
33:15 - The stress of youth competitions
35:34 - World Cup climbing is uncomfortable
40:23 - Lead vs boulder preference
44:37 - Future climbing + education goals
49:26 - Now we're just glazing San Diego
54:41 - Audience Q: Anything you would've wanted to change with the team event?
58:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Memories/advice from youth training?
1:02:17 - Being known as the "benchwarmers' benchwarmers"
1:03:08 - Outdoor goals
1:05:17 - Beating Elden Ring
1:06:28 - Relationship advice from 18 year olds!
1:09:13 - Words of wisdom + where to find Zoe and Declan
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Hannes Van Duysen - Slab KING Feels Pressure
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!You may have heard of him as the slab master, but Hannes is a climber on Team Belgium who just recently …
Notes de l’épisode
You may have heard of him as the slab master, but Hannes is a climber on Team Belgium who just recently got silver in boulder at Arco Rockmasters and also won a bronze in Innsbruck this past 2025 season! In this episode, we’ll go over his 2025 season, get his tips on slab climbing, and learn about how he tries to stay in the right mindset during stressful competitions.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Amazing Arco Rockmaster Slab Top
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:12 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:56 - Elbow surgery!
4:20 - Rockmasters reflection
10:55 - Getting into climbing and competing
15:27 - Transitioning out of youth comps
17:24 - 2025 season reflection
22:41 - Comps are going back to old-school climbs
26:08 - Instagram influencing world cups
28:44 - Staying in shape throughout a long competition season
32:10 - Lead vs boulder preference
35:43 - Training schedule + lifting vs gaining weight
43:12 - Pressure being the slab master
47:31 - Top slab tips
49:45 - The fickle mental game of comps
52:58 - Power of visualization for mindset
56:55 - The backflip of anger!!
1:00:16 - Taking his driving test
1:05:03 - 2026 goals
1:06:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What is the language situation in team Belgium?
1:09:37 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you think calisthenics/gymnastics is necessary now in comp climbing?
1:11:35 - AUDIENCE Q: How to stay calm during competitions?
1:16:43 - Words of wisdom + where to find Hannes
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Ben Hanna - Self Medicating ADHD with Climbing
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Ben is a climber on Team USA and hold shaper for Pusher holds! In this episode we’ll get some insight into …
Notes de l’épisode
Ben is a climber on Team USA and hold shaper for Pusher holds! In this episode we’ll get some insight into the grades of world cup boulders, how depression, anxiety, and ADHD shapes his relationship with climbing, how he balances working as a routesetter with training, and get his thoughts on hold shaping.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Seoul World Champs Boulder Semis
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:10 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:53 - World champs experience
11:51 - Difficulty of semis boulders at world cups
18:33 - Getting into climbing and competing
22:36 - Climbing as self-medication for ADHD
30:20 - Training routine...or lack thereof
38:44 - Actually a lead climber
45:21 - MORE power boulders!
51:55 - Competitiveness with Colin
55:11 - Becoming a hold shaper
59:00 - Good holds vs bad holds
1:09:54 - Thoughts on no tex
1:20:05 - 2026 goals
1:21:56 - AUDIENCE Q: Did you really start climbing at 2?
1:26:19 - AUDIENCE Q: What kept you motivated to keep trying after failures at nationals
1:30:53 - AUDIENCE Q: What local climbers helped you growing up?
1:33:51 - Shoutouts + where to find Ben
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Annie Sanders - EXCLUSIVE: 2025 IFSC Season Thoughts
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Annie is a climber on Team USA and she had an amazing world cup season this year with 2 boulder golds and …
Notes de l’épisode
Annie is a climber on Team USA and she had an amazing world cup season this year with 2 boulder golds and a lead gold and even more podiums! In this episode we’ll learn about what goes through her mind during her crazy beta breaks, what her training routine looks like, and how gym access really influences performance.
Guest links:
Annie’s Xiaohungshu (red book)
Reference links:
Women’s Boulder Final Seoul World Champs
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
0:56 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:39 - Jetlag + travels
5:29 - Growing up in a climbing family
7:09 - Static + slow climbing style
10:07 - Regretting static beta breaks??
12:08 - Timing out in lead
18:22 - 2026 goals
20:49 - Annie's training plan
24:32 - Lack of gym access
27:43 - Post-high school plans
30:22 - Outdoor climbing
33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you still be an elite climber without passion?
35:43 - Audience Q: Mindset during comps?
41:36 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for endurance?
42:26 - Audience Q: Advice on how to break dynos?
43:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it hard previewing climbs with other athletes?
45:57 - Outro and where to find Annie
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Sagi Damti - German Coach DEBUNKS Olympics Rumors
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Sagi has been the German team’s bouldering coach since 2022! In this episode, we’ll get insight into Team …
Notes de l’épisode
Sagi has been the German team’s bouldering coach since 2022! In this episode, we’ll get insight into Team Germany’s training and challenges, hear why he thinks the losses hurt the coaches more than the competitors, we’ll get a story about his experience as a homeless person while in the US, and most importantly, we’ll DEBUNK his famous statement in the Magnus video that Olympic qualifiers will still be in the combined format for 2028!
Guest links:
Reference links:
IFSC Format Experiment Upcoming Comp
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:40 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:24 - Youth worlds + Spain travels
4:59 - Climbing + coaching with no experience!
12:02 - Becoming the German bouldering coach
19:42 - Do pros still need climbing tips??
22:41 - Team Germany's training breakdown + reaction time practice
28:19 - Comforting athletes who have a bad round
37:58 - DEBUNKING LA 2028 qualification process
44:07 - The issue with bouldering points system
47:32 - HOT TAKE: Bouldering is no longer real climbing
54:53 - New generation of climbing
1:02:55 - German team challenges
1:09:42 - Price of hosting world cups
1:11:13 - Bouldering needs to change
1:18:50 - USA travel nightmare
1:28:03 - IG Q: Athletes in Germany that hate the DAV?
1:32:11 - DISCORD Q: Talk through the process of an appeal
1:38:58 - DISCORD Q: What do you do in ISO?
1:40:55 - Words of wisdom + where to find Sagi
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Miguel Zevallos - FIX Your Comp Climbing INJURIES
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Miguel is a climbing physical therapist who works closely with the Method youth climbing team in the US …
Notes de l’épisode
Miguel is a climbing physical therapist who works closely with the Method youth climbing team in the US and recently worked his first youth nationals! In this episode, we’ll learn about the danger of growth plate injuries in youth climbing athletes, we’ll get a glimpse into youth ISO, we’ll rank 3 of the most dangerous comp moves we’ve seen so far, and we’ll hear about his own journey trying to make the Peruvian national team!
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:03 - Getting into PT and climbing
4:09 - OTs vs PTs and insurance battles
7:26 - Working with youth comp climbers
9:44 - What ISO is like at youth nationals
14:38 - Massage guns? And my bro-science musings
16:43 - Injuries in kids vs adults
19:37 - The big one: growth plate injuries in kids
25:01 - When to rest vs train through an injury
27:34 - General recommendations for climbing injuries
32:45 - S+C to prevent ankle, shoulder injuries
35:26 - Ranking 3 dangerous comp moves
42:27 - When NOT to tape
47:28 - What injuries do vs don't require time off the wall
52:53 - Chronic injuries? Maybe you're climbing wrong...
59:33 - Training for Peruvian nationals
1:06:37 - DISCORD Q: What advice would you give to PT students looking to work with climbers?
1:08:46 - DISCORD Q: What are the pillars of a strong climbing warmup?
1:12:27 - DISCORD Q: top 2 exercises for injury prevention
1:17:29 - Words of wisdom and where to find Miguel
Chapitres
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Pete Woods - The Sad FINANCIALS of Climbing
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Pete is a commentator and MC who has commentated for several world cups and North American elite …
Notes de l’épisode
Pete is a commentator and MC who has commentated for several world cups and North American elite competitions. In this episode, we’ll learn about the art of MCing, times he’s gotten flamed online as a commentator, and we get a lot of insight into the financials of broadcast and climbing as a sport, including the best argument I’ve heard yet for why Eurosport is a good deal. It’s clear to me in this episode that Pete is a huge proponent of growing the climbing community and his passion really shines through!
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:13 - Climbing in 1 World Cup
8:15 - Deciding not to be a dirtbag climber
11:13 - The art of MCing
15:13 - Is MCing or commentary more fun?
18:58 - The price of broadcasting
21:06 - Getting yelled at for commentary
27:03 - SLC world cup v6 boulders
37:41 - How to trick top climbers with holds
39:43 - The value of non-IFSC comps
46:26 - Cost of putting together Dockmasters
51:41 - Punk Rock Masters' crazy $50k cash purse
59:52 - Are climbers cheapskates?!
1:11:37 - IG Q: Are dynamic moves a good way to make climbing more mainstream?
1:16:26 - IG Q: What do you want to be remembered for?
1:17:51 - IG Q: What's your current relationship with CEC?
1:24:49 - IG Q: What's your golf handicap?
1:29:01 - Climbers need to be promoting climbers!
1:34:55 - Closing thoughts + where to find Pete
Chapitres
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Nekaia + Sovarae Sanders - Comp Climbing SISTERHOOD
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!You probably recognize Nekaia from when she recently made her first boulder world cup finals in Curitiba …
Notes de l’épisode
You probably recognize Nekaia from when she recently made her first boulder world cup finals in Curitiba and her sister Sovarae podiumed at her last USA youth boulder nationals. In this episode, we get a lot of insight into their sibling dynamic as comp climbers, we’ll hear about Nekaia’s experience in Curitiba and Sovarae’s experience going through mental battles at comps, and we’ll have some fun conversation about food and Harry Potter.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:35 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:18 - Nekaia's new haircut!
6:59 - Are they related to Annie Sanders?!
7:42 - How the family got into climbing
11:05 - Homeschool kids
13:52 - Sovarae used to get dragged to the climbing gym
21:11 - Jealously and competitiveness amongst each other
30:45 - How USA team selection works
33:49 - Nekaia's breakout performance in Curitiba
41:25 - Nekaia's slab strength and strength weakness
43:39 - Sovarae's finger strength and mental weakness
49:32 - Nekaia's mental advice
51:57 - World Cup traveling and eating abroad
56:32 - HOT TAKE: Losing is more important than winning
59:53 - HOT TAKE: People who say they don't like comp style climbing need to be shown how!
1:04:12 - Swimming and Harry Potter
1:10:53 - DISCORD Q: How early to start wearing in a comp shoe?
1:13:30 - IG Q: Favorite style of climb?
1:16:28 - IG Q: Outdoor rock projects?
1:18:09 - IG Q: What effect does fan interaction have on your morale?
1:22:36 - IG Q: How do the finances work?
1:25:28 - IG Q: Does Sovarae always get the middle seat?
1:28:39 - Closing thoughts + where to find Nekaia and Sovarae
Chapitres
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Carl McNeice - Erin McNeice's BRUTAL HONESTY Approach to Training
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!If it’s not obvious, Carl is Erin McNeice’s dad and I’m so thrilled to get a parent perspective on the …
Notes de l’épisode
If it’s not obvious, Carl is Erin McNeice’s dad and I’m so thrilled to get a parent perspective on the podcast. In this episode, we’ll learn about the family’s dedication and honest approach to building Erin’s climbing career, how much it cost to support the training and travel of an athlete, why he’s no longer allowed to watch her comps in person, and get adorable dad-anecdotes from the Olympics.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Budapest Olympic Qualifier Stress
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:19 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:06 - Returning from Innsbruck
5:44 - Carl's climbing and gymnastics background
10:47 - Getting involved in competition climbing
15:57 - When to push vs when to back off
22:43 - The cost of being a comp parent
28:32 - Sudden rise between the 2023-2024 season
33:59 - Erin's intense training schedule
38:37 - Phasing out of Erin's training routine
42:53 - Not being allowed to watch the comps in person
48:06 - The stress of watching your child compete
54:38 - Most stressful competition to watch
58:35 - The Olympics experience
1:06:13 - Thoughts on dangerous setting
1:16:55 - DISCORD Q: How does having a comp kid influence the family dynamic?
1:20:02 - DISCORD: How to avoid good results = good vibes only
1:25:31 - DISCORD Q: Do you approve shots of yourself on Erin's Youtube channel :p
1:27:41 - DISCORD Q: How does it feel to be a worse climber than your child?
1:30:49 - Words of wisdom
Chapitres
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Ty Hardaway - The World's HIGHEST MILEAGE Belayer
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Ty has done it all: He’s been competition belaying, judging, and coaching for over 10 years, and he …
Notes de l’épisode
Ty has done it all: He’s been competition belaying, judging, and coaching for over 10 years, and he started the belay programs at USA climbing and the IFSC. In this episode, we’ll learn about all things belaying, get behind the scenes insight, and hear about how the scene has changed since the Olympics came into play, leading to some toxic parents.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:20 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:08 - Coaching and belaying at USA youth nationals
7:36 - Getting into volunteer judging/belaying
11:35 - Good belaying vs bad belaying
15:40 - You need to train your neck!!
18:03 - Dangerous belay practices
23:49 - The pressure of belaying at world cups
29:29 - Athletes with specific belay requests
31:54 - Athletes who are hard to belay for
34:32 - Routesetting that makes belaying hard
37:28 - Being a speed starter
43:57 - Birmingham world games 2022
47:41 - HOT TAKE: Women are better belayers than men?!
51:25 - Paraclimbing belaying
54:28 - Manual speed climbing belaying?!
57:02 - Extra considerations for para belaying
59:37 - Changes in the sport - Olympics desperation
1:04:40 - The toxic youth scene
1:09:31 - Discord Q: Do belayers get a rundown of the route from setters?
1:10:24 - DISCORD Q: Have you ever seen an athlete or coach object to a belayer?
1:11:15 - DISCORD Q: Process for removing belayers mid comp?
1:13:28 - Ice climbing belaying?!?
1:16:03 - Where to find Ty
Chapitres
Chargement des chapitres…
Antonin Pharel - Why IFSC Production SUCKS?!
Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!Antonin is the graphics operator for the IFSC! In this episode, we’ll learn about why the IFSC chooses to …
Notes de l’épisode
Antonin is the graphics operator for the IFSC! In this episode, we’ll learn about why the IFSC chooses to use local production teams instead of their own production team and the difficulties that come with that, why graphics don’t show up sometimes, and we’ll hear about his thoughts on why the bouldering format is inherently broken for watching on TV.
Guest links:
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:08 - 5 weekends of work
5:23 - Best ISO Warm up zone
7:07 - What he does for IFSC
10:19 - The structure of IFSC broadcast
13:30 - Choosing between IFSC production or local
19:07 - What guidelines are given to local tv crews?
23:08 - Who is in charge of cinematic shot decisions?
36:43 - The difficulty showing bouldering on TV
43:05 - Considering the elimination boulder format?
46:33 - How to satisfy both climber and non-climbing audience
49:53 - Why do graphics lag behind/not show up?
54:41 - Can we have scores show on screen more often?
58:02 - Why putting up a clock is so difficult
1:02:39 - Traveling with a full camera set
1:07:47 - Dead body in SLC?!
1:12:46 - Climbing gym work
1:21:05 - Q: Do you ever rewatch comps?
1:23:34 - Q: Is it legal to stream the whole event as a spectator?
1:25:02 - Where to find Antonin and send further complaints :p
Chapitres
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