8. Laksa and the Great British Lie

Tried laksa with spaghetti? Or sour tamarind laksa? Laksa comes in many forms, but a classic Nyonya laksa has captured global hearts more than others. Its a dish that's central to the Chinese Peranakan community - a community that found unusual favour in Britain-controlled Malaya.

As the 18th Century rolled on, the Malay world faced growing European pressure, especially with the rise of the British East India Company. They came not just to trade, but to control. Armed with the power of deception, the Company set its sights on the island of Penang.

We hear from Peranakan researcher Dr David Neo, on the rise of Chinese Peranakan communities in colonial Malaya. He also shares his experiences on the extravagance of Nyonya cuisine and its uncertain future.

And Lillian Tong, Director of the Pinang Peranakan Mansion, recounts life growing up in Penang. She discusses the shame of being Peranakan in the 1980s and the sudden revival and popularisation in the 1990s.

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Neo, D. H., Ngo, S.-S., & Heng, J. G. K. (2019). Popular imaginary and cultural constructions of the Nonya in Peranakan Chinese culture of the Straits Settlements. Ethnicities, 20(1), 24-48. https://doi.org/10.1177/1468796819867399

Growing Up in a Nonya Kitchen: Asian Recipes from My Mother (2021), Sharon Wee

The Nyonya Kebaya: A Showcase Collection of Nyonya Kebayas from The Collection of Datin Seri Endon Mahmood (2002), Datin Seri Endon Mahmood

Pinang Peranakan Mansion - 29, Church St, Georgetown, 10200 George Town, Penang, Malaysia

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited