HODINKEE Podcasts
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- Último episódio
- 11 nov 2026
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This is the main feed for all of Hodinkee's podcasts, from "Hodinkee Radio" to new and special presentations subscribe here for discussions about the latest watch releases, interviews with notable collectors, and a whole lot more.
Episódios 332
The Business of Watches [48] The GPGH Jury And Award Winners With Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich
This week on The Business of Watches, we unpack the results and go behind the scenes for the voting process for the biggest industry awards of the year - the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). And we're …
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This week on The Business of Watches, we unpack the results and go behind the scenes for the voting process for the biggest industry awards of the year - the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).
And we're lucky enough to have someone who was in the room as the votes were cast and the jury debated which prizes should go to which brand or watchmaker. Mark Kauzlarich, Hodinkee senior editor, served on the GPHG jury for the first time in 2026 and presented the award for the GPHG Gemset Watch Prize.
Mark walks us through his week in Geneva and how the jury process plays out and what winning a prize means for those fortunate enough to be awarded one. We also discuss what's at risk for those participating and how the GPHG might attract an even bigger slice of the industry in the future. And finally, Mark gives us the highlights from some of the important watchmakers and brands he visited as the top takeaways from another record auction weekend.
Show Notes:
1:51 GPHG Nominated timepieces 2026 (GPHG website)
2:44 Musée d'Art et d'Histoire GPHG Vernissage (MAH website)
4:25 The Faces of the 2026 Jury (GPHG)
4:48 Pierre Salanitro (Salanitro website)
5:14 francoisjunod.com
8:20 Nominated Timepieces (GPHG)
8:46 In-Depth: The Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie (Hodinkee)
11:40 Introducing: The Baltic x SpaceOne 'Seconde Majeure' – A Jump Hour à Paris (Live Pics)
13:33 A Visit To The Three Chopard Manufacturing Sites In Switzerland (Fratello)
16:05 Introducing: Chopard Brings Back The Original Happy Diamonds And Happy Sport (Hodinkee)
18:35 This episode is brought to you by Watches of Switzerland. Listeners get $200 off a first order of $1,000+ on full-price items with code HDKPOD-Holiday-200 (case-sensitive) at checkout. Click here to shop the promotion. US only. Online only. Valid through 1/4/27, while supplies last, and subject to availability. Cannot be combined with other offers. Exclusions apply. See full terms at watchesofswitzerland.com.
22:50 Chopard Watchmaking Apprentice program (Chopard website)
25:30 Ferdinand Berthoud (website)
26:40 Petermann-Bédat (website)
32:04 F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Resonance "Régence" (Phillips)
35:12 Auctions: Three Big Takeaways From The Geneva Fall Auction Season (Hodinkee)
39:50 GPHG Livestream (Hodinkee)
43:10 The 2026 GPHG: Rexhep Rexhepi Wins The Aiguille d'Or For The RRCHF
48:25 La Vallee Cosmo (Instagram)
58:05 Churchill's "Democracy is the Worst Form of Government… (Richardlangworth.com)
The Business of Watches [47] WatchCharts Top Executives Talk Morgan Stanley's Secondary Watch Market Report And Where Prices Might Be Heading
This week on The Business of Watches an extended chat with a duo whose business is watch market data. Charles Tian is the founder and Chief Executive Officer of WatchCharts.com and Hamza Masood is the head of …
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This week on The Business of Watches an extended chat with a duo whose business is watch market data. Charles Tian is the founder and Chief Executive Officer of WatchCharts.com and Hamza Masood is the head of business partnerships at the U.S.-based company. They're both longtime technology executives who have turned a passion for watches into a business. That venture is WatchCharts and it gathers and analyses secondary market watch prices to show demand trends, price movements and the relative health and desirability of brands and luxury groups in the sector. Its customers include retailers, watch dealers, collectors and brands.
With the U.S. investment bank Morgan Stanley, WatchCharts data is used to produce in-depth reports four times a year on the state of the secondary market. The report for the third quarter, published in mid-October, shows the fifth straight quarter of overall market gains of more than 1%, suggesting stability and recovery. Still, the growth is slowing and is the weakest since mid 2025. And while the gains are more widespread among watchmakers, with prices for 28 of 35 brands tracked posting quarter-over-quarter gains, the overall WatchCharts index is still about 28% below its all-time peak, a record hit in the post-pandemic euphoria of April, 2022.
As for outperforming brands, the usual suspects of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Cartier continue to set the pace. A. Lange & Sohne prices along with Tudor and Vacheron Constantin are recent stand outs and Rolex is still, by far, the biggest factor on the secondary market, even as the mighty Crown shows signs of demand leveling off while inventories reach record highs. As geo-politics continue to add uncertainty to the market for pre-owned watches, can the gains keep coming and who's most vulnerable if demand takes a dip?
Show Notes:
0:51 WatchCharts.com (website) 1:04 Charles Tian blog posts on WatchCharts.com
1:10 Hamza Masood blog posts on WatchCharts.com
2:19 Luxury Watch Prices Rise Again, But Record Inventory Clouds The Outlook (Forbes)
6:22 WatchCharts Rolex Market Index
7:10 $2K to $5K Watch Market Index (WatchCharts)
8:25 Vacheron Constantin Index (WatchCharts)
10:07 A. Lange & Sohne Index (WatchCharts)
13:25 F.P. Journe Watches: Prices, Rarity and Why Collectors Chase Them (NYU Ed - possible AI content)
13:40 F.P.Journe Élégante (Journe website)
14:41 Girard-Perregaux Laureato Collection
15:20 This episode is brought to you by Watches of Switzerland. Listeners get $200 off a first order of $1,000+ on full-price items with code HDKPOD-Holiday-200 (case-sensitive) at checkout. Click here to shop the promotion. US only. Online only. Valid through 1/4/27, while supplies last, and subject to availability. Cannot be combined with other offers. Exclusions apply. See full terms at watchesofswitzerland.com.
20:30 Everywatch.com
20:48 Chrono24 Chronopulse
23:41 Fungibility definition (Wikipedia)
25:32 WatchCharts Q1 Market Report
31:40 What Does AI Mean For The Watchmaking Industry (Watches and Wonders 2024 - YouTube)
35:01 WatchCharts Value Retention
41:53 Hands On: The Tudor Northflag (Hodinkee)
44:50 IWC (Website)
48:02 Editor's Picks: Our Favorite Pilot Watches (Hodinkee)
50:22 WatchCharts Full Year Report 2025 including impact of price of gold analysis
54:30 Rolex Certified Pre-Owned (Watches of Switzerland)
1:00:18 JLC Introduces Its Second Vintage Capsule Of 'The Collectibles' (Hodinkee)
1:08:12 WatchCharts Marketplace
The Business of Watches [46] What New York Watch Week's Unbridled Enthusiasm Says About The Market With Griffin Bartsch And TanTan Wang
This week on The Business of Watches we regroup and recount the events known as New York Watch Week. From INDIES.NYC, to the FHH Forum to WatchTime and Windup NYC, Griffin Bartsch and TanTan Wang hit the highs …
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This week on The Business of Watches we regroup and recount the events known as New York Watch Week. From INDIES.NYC, to the FHH Forum to WatchTime and Windup NYC, Griffin Bartsch and TanTan Wang hit the highs and lows of what is now considered the premier calendar week event in the U.S. watch world.
The U.S. market's rapid ascension to top dog among timepiece destinations is fully confirmed with more than CHF 4.3 billion worth of watches being imported from Switzerland in 2025, accounting for 17% of overall Swiss watch exports. It's an elevation driven by a surge in enthusiasm and interest in the post-pandemic era with publications like Hodinkee - started way back in 2008 - laying the groundwork for a new generation of watch enthusiast, collector, and buyer.
But is the growth sustainable and is the industry catering enough to American tastes and needs? Is the U.S. market strength a fleeting diversion or is it in it for the long haul? Hodinkee editors Andy, Griffin and TanTan weigh in on the products and activations conjured by some of the world's biggest watch brands in the largest market for luxury and premium timepieces. Who's getting it right and who's missing the boat? What should brands be doing to win the hearts and minds of the U.S. watch consumer in 2026 and beyond?
Show Notes:
0:48 New York Watch Week (Hodinkee Instagram)
1:04 WatchTime New York (website)
1:05 Windup Watch Fair New York (website)
1:07 INDIES.NYC (website)
1:20 TanTan Wang @tantantalum (Instagram)
1:21 Griffin Bartsch @cgriffinbartsch (Instagram)
1:37 NARO NYC (website)
2:38 Swiss Watch Exports To U.S. Surge In December Capping Volatile And Down Year For Industry (Hodinkee)
6:08 MB&F Lounge New York City (website)
9:35 Casa Panerai (NYC website)
10:31 Former Urban Outfitters Building In Williamsburg To Turning Into A New Members-Only Club (Greenpointers)
12:36 Gerald Genta Watches (website)
12:37 Daniel Roth (website)
14:24 Hands-On: G-SHOCK Reveals The MRG-D5000 "Blue Rose Project" In Sapphire (Hodinkee)
15:40 This episode is brought to you by Watches of Switzerland. Listeners get $200 off a first order of $1,000+ on full-price items with code HDKPOD-Holiday-200 (case-sensitive) at checkout. Shop here: (US only. Online only. Valid through 1/4/27, while supplies last, and subject to availability. Cannot be combined with other offers. Exclusions apply. See full terms at watchesofswitzerland.com.)
17:18 Introducing: Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar Burgundy Limited Edition (Live Pics) (Hodinkee)
17:20 Introducing: The Redesigned Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 (Hodinkee)
18:15 IntroducingThe Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum (Hodinkee)
19:54 Introducing: Ressence Type 10 DN "Dark Night" (Hodinkee)
21:20 Hands On Impressions Of The Tudor FXD GMT "Zulu Time" (Worn and Wound)
25:19 Hands-OnThe Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Khaki (Hodinkee)
25:30 Introducing: Ming x Massena Lab 57.09 'Secret Honey' (Hodinkee)
26:41 Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, Founder And Chief Executive Officer Of Fears (Business of Watches Podcast)
29:06 Introducing: Stéphane Pierre Launches His Namesake Brand With The Impressive 'l'Impétrant' (Hodinkee)
29:11 Introducing: The Bradley Taylor Ardea (Hodinkee)
31:12 Dan Royter Watches (website)
31:25 FHH New York Watch Summit
40:16 A. Lange & Söhne Brings A Glimpse Of History to New York City - Photo Report (Hodinkee)
42:30 IntroducingThe Brew Metric Chrono Taxi (Hodinkee)
45:40 Windup Watchfair NYC (Sparkling PR Instagram)
48:09 Autodromo Group C Turbo Sport (Brand website)
51:05 Brew - Metric Chrono Taxi - (Brand Website )
51:04 Kenneth Lam of Arken Watches (StandardH Podcast Youtube)
54:50 Javits Center New York (website)
56:20 Why Is Everyone Waiting Hours for Frozen Yogurt? Why Am I? (New York Times)
The Business of Watches [45] Fears Watches Founder And Chief Executive Officer Nicholas Bowman-Scargill
This week on The Business of Watches, an in-depth discussion with Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the founder and Chief Executive Officer of Fears Watches. Nicholas has packed a lot into his 39 years. For the last …
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This week on The Business of Watches, an in-depth discussion with Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the founder and Chief Executive Officer of Fears Watches. Nicholas has packed a lot into his 39 years. For the last decade he's been helming the brand originally founded by his great-great-great grandfather, Edwin Fears, in Bristol, England way back in 1846.
Incredibly, Bowman-Scargill wasn't even aware of the Fears brand and family connection when he decided to train as a watchmaker at Rolex in the U.K. That move into watches followed an ill-timed foray into investment banking on the eve of the Global Financial Crisis, in 2008.
By the time Bowman-Scargill restarted the brand in 2016, it had been dormant for nearly four decades. Its revival has been an exercise in business challenges that have often been met by practicing the art of project management, a skill set that he and his fellow Brits are uniquely adept at, he says. Fears has now grown to about 15 people and returned to its roots in Bristol. From flirting with bankruptcy to implementing a dress code for employees and overseeing the design and production of a perpetual calendar model, Bowman-Scargill relays the dramatic tale of how the company has survived and thrived in the crowded and competitive arena of mid-tier priced timepieces.
It's a heck of a story that offers heaps of insight for any watch enthusiast, collector or small business owner. From what he learned and has applied at Fears from his time at Rolex, to what's in the envelope that's only to be opened should he meet an unexpected demise, what kind of investors he's accepted to the family business, and how to bring that non-watch enthusiast customer to the brand, Bowman-Scargill serves up plenty of candor, wisdom and experience in this wide-ranging discussion.
Show Notes:
0:48 New York Watch Week (Hodinkee)
1:19 Bristol England (VisitBristol.co.uk)
3:48 List of Fears managing directors (Fears website)
7:32 Corporate Governance (OECD)
9:36 Carp Fisher magazines (The Carp Society)
10:03 Master of the Universe - Investment Bankers (Prime Video)
10:19 The Men Who Destroyed Deutsche Bank (Der Spiegel)
10:47 The watches that bankers blow their first bonuses on (efinancialcareers.com)
12:45 Francis Bourgeois (YouTube)
14:02 Rolex Service Centres in London
17:11 Moritz Grossmann history and founding of the German School of Watchmaking (company website)
18:35 Fears Watch Company Limited (Companies House)
20:07 The First Fears Watch - The Redcliff Date from 2016
23:26 Fears Brunswick White 38
27:30 Établissage (FHH)
30:15 Mighty Mercedes Benz Models of the 1980s (Hagerty UK)
31:36 Inside Swiss Watch Manufacturing At the EPHJ (Swiss 101 Hodinkee)
35:25 The Power of Dress (Psychology Today)
42:35 Becoming a Civilian (Jason Heaton SWIMPRUF)
42:53 Meet the Fears Garrick (Worn & Wound)
48:02 British Watch & Clock Makers Alliance
48:25 What Really Happened to the Costa Cruises' Costa Concordia (Cruise Critic)
49:50 What is a Project Manager? (Project Manager YouTube)
55:20 What is cash flow and how do you manage it? (British Business Bank)
58:20 Chargeback Fraud: How It Works, Common Types & How To Prevent It (Unit21.ai)
58:46 Being Fearless: The First Ten Years of Rebuilding a Watch Company by Chris Hall with Foreward by Mike France (Waterstones)
The Business of Watches [44] The Organizers Behind The Escapement In Las Vegas And Why They Think It's Time For A New Kind Of Watch Show
Is there room for another watch show? Is there demand? Is Las Vegas the ideal place to bring thousands of watch collectors together for a weekend of horological themed fun, discussion and entertainment? The …
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Is there room for another watch show? Is there demand? Is Las Vegas the ideal place to bring thousands of watch collectors together for a weekend of horological themed fun, discussion and entertainment?
The folks behind The Escapement are saying an emphatic yes to all of the above. They're putting on a new watch event in Las Vegas in 2027 running February 5-7 and they believe collectors and enthusiasts are primed for a fresh, in-depth and upgraded take on the watch meetup.
Texas-based Neeshu Hajra is an enthusiastic watch collector who has decades of experience in the events business. Now located in the Middle East, Faheem Khan spent most of his career in the energy industry in London and now writes and curates the popular watch, philosophy and psychology driven Substack blog ScrewDownCrown. He's also the irreverent voice behind @kingflum on Instagram. Together, they're planning and organizing The Escapement with help from a few other big names in the industry that we dive into during the episode.
We discuss what makes meetups work and why they had to pull plans to hold the inaugural edition of the event in Abu Dhabi and move to a more conventional location in Vegas where they hope to attract some 5,000 general admission ticket buyers and 750 VIP ticket clients.
There's been some skepticism from industry naysayers as to the need and potential of the event. WatchPro's editor said the original gathering planned for Abu Dhabi gave him "Fyre Festival vibes," recalling the island music and entertainment party promoted by social media influencers that was the subject of dueling documentaries on Netflix and Hulu detailing its troubled outcome.
During a wide-ranging interview, Hajra and Khan tell us how they're staging and financing this first show and why they believe the event, with industry notables including Rexhep Rexhepi and Eric Ku slated to speak and with brands attending ranging from Atelier Wen to Biver to Daniel Roth to Greubel Forsey to Lang & Heyne and Ming, will tell brand stories in a fresh new way, making the event a success with further editions for years to come.
Show Notes:
1:23 Nishu Hajra and The Trade Group (Exhibtor Online)2:45 Screw Down Crown / kingflum / Substack
7:38 Middle East Forces The Escapement To Cancel Abu Dhabi Event And Move To Las Vegas (Hodinkee)
13:59 What's Happening in Abu Dhabi (Time Out)
14:10 Etihad Arena Abu Dhabi
16:30 Photo Report Dubai Watch Week (Hodinkee)
18:58 A Visit With @NYCWatchGuy (Swiss Watch Gang YouTube)
22:42 T-Mobile Arena Las Vegas (website) 24:05 FHH (website) 30:02 Watch Anish (Instagram) 32:55 Wynn Las Vegas
33:42 An example of an F.P.Journe Clock previously sold at auction (Loupe This)
34:54 Phillips Watches
35:44 Andrew Schulz (Official Website)
36:49 Rubis Awards (website)
37:05 Top Gamer and AI Techs Mike Capps and Ben Horesh Helm Everywatch (Forbes)
46:02 HSNY Watchmaker Classes
The Business of Watches [43] Bangalore Watch Company Co-Founder And CEO Nirupesh Joshi
This week on The Business of Watches, a boutique brand and its CEO from a country that has much of the watch industry abuzz. Nirupesh Joshi is the co-founder and Chief Executive Officer of Bangalore Watch …
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This week on The Business of Watches, a boutique brand and its CEO from a country that has much of the watch industry abuzz. Nirupesh Joshi is the co-founder and Chief Executive Officer of Bangalore Watch Company, based in Bengaluru (previously known as Bangalore), India.
The company was founded in 2018 and has slowly established itself as a purveyor of premium watchmaking with models that don't rely on classic tropes about the country to tell their story. Former tech industry executives Joshi and his wife, Mercy Amalraj, are building a brand that aims to express the modern spirit of India, as the country becomes an increasingly significant economic and cultural player on the world stage.
There's a rich history of watchmaking in India, marked by brands including HMT and Titan, that have produced watches at large volumes to serve India's fast-growing population of over 1 billion people. But BWC is seeking a different client, one that's more seasoned in watches, and is seeking a brand that innovates and competes with other marques from around the world to tell its own unique stories.
BWC has grown to about 15 staff members, including watchmakers repatriated from other brands, opened a boutique in its home city, and produces around 2,000 watches per year, assembled in India, using components made both in-country and from suppliers around the world. The company recently raised capital from investors, and Joshi tells us how BWC plans to bring its watches to a wider, global audience. Customers outside of India already account for about 60% of sales, and the plan is to grow that segment further with modern, high-quality watches that express the dynamism of India and its young population.
Show Notes:
1:05 Bangalore Watch Company (website)3:39 Hindustan Machine Tools - About Us
5:12 Tata Group 6:35 BWC Apogee 'Visitor'
6:51 BWC Cover Drive 'The Outfield'
7:45 The Role of Hong Kong In The Global Watch Market (Hong Kong's Finest Watches)
16:08 Why does India want to be a space power? (London School of Economics)
17:17 BWC Peninsula Carbon
18:18 Delhi AQI (Instagram)
22:00 Warby Parker
23:02 High-Net-Worth Individual (HNI) – Meaning, Types, and More (DBS Bank)
24:59 Horologer Ming Executives Ming Thein And Praneeth Rajsingh Talk Design, Manufacturing, Pricing, And More (Hodinkee) 25:02 Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour 'Ultimus' (Hodinkee)
26:24 Bangalore Watch Company opens flagship boutique in its hometown (Europa Star)
29:28 The Business of Watches Podcast: Czapek & Cie. CEO And Co-Founder Xavier de Roquemaurel
30:31 Furlan Marri
33:25 On Paper / On Wrist The Delhi Watch Co. DWC Terra (The Grey Nato)
36:26 BWC Forty Seven
38:50 India Single Malt Whisky: Complete Guide 2026 (The Daily Whisky)
The Business of Watches [42] Formex CEO And Head Of Product Development At Dexel Raphael Granito
Formex holds a unique place in the Swiss watch industry. The brand was born in the early 2000s with a proprietary case suspension system and designs that expressed the origins of its name 'forme extrême' …
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Formex holds a unique place in the Swiss watch industry. The brand was born in the early 2000s with a proprietary case suspension system and designs that expressed the origins of its name 'forme extrême' (extreme shapes in French). But the recession spurred by the Global Financial Crisis of 2008 dealt a near fatal blow to the brand and it entered a period of relative dormancy.
Then in 2016, Formex was taken over by a group backed by one of its suppliers, Dexel, a Swiss component maker specializing in bracelets, clasps and cases as well as dials at its subsidiary Cadranor.
Raphael Granito, now in his mid-thirties, is part of the family business behind Dexel and led the take over and revival of the Formex marque. He has steered the brand's development ever since and a decade later, Formex is leveraging its manufacturing savoir-faire and research and development skills from Dexel to produce innovative and approachable-priced Swiss Made watches. The brand evolution culminated recently with the Aria, a high-end integrated bracelet titanium sport watch with an, ultra-thin, micro-rotor manufacture movement designed by Horage, priced below CHF 6,000. That's a significant step up compared to the CHF 1,800 average price point for its watches.
Granito outlines how the brand has grown and connected with more customers, operating mainly outside the traditional retail structure. Still a family business, he hired his best friend from university to lead marketing and sales efforts. Formex has distinguished itself offering upscale finishing and components, including cases, bracelets innovative clasps and stone dials that include meteorite options. It's approach to design and engineering innovation, that Granito calls 'designeering,' has certainly struck a chord with a watch enthusiasts, particularly in the U.S., now the Swiss brand's largest market.
Show Notes1:05 Raphael Granito (Instagram)
2:05 The Inner Workings of Formex's Case Suspension System (WatchGecko)
2:56 The Great Recession and its Aftermath (Federal Reserve History)
3:57 The Secret Sauce Behind the Value Proposition of Formex Watches (Timefiles)
4:08 Dexel (website)
4:12 Cadranor (website)
5:16 Formex Essence 5:37
Interview with Markus Wälchli, marketing director of Formex (The Watch Society YouTube)
12:17 Hands-OnFurlan Marri Disco Diamonds Onyx – A New Affordable Entry Into Subtle Gemsetting (Hodinkee)
19:26 The Aria Manufacture Chronometer From Formex (Hodinkee)
The Business of Watches [41] Czapek & Cie. Chief Executive Officer And Co-Founder Xavier de Roquemaurel
This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with the business leader who has headed the reborn Czapek & Cie. brand for more than a decade now. Xavier de Roquemaurel didn't come from the watch industry …
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This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with the business leader who has headed the reborn Czapek & Cie. brand for more than a decade now. Xavier de Roquemaurel didn't come from the watch industry when he co-founded Czapek with fellow entrepreneur Harry Guhl with help from watchmaker Sébastien Follonier in 2015.
He's had to learn the industry on the job and while Czapek burst on the scene by winning the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Public Prize in its debut year in 2016, the company and de Roquemaurel have faced plenty of challenges along the way. From the novel financing and shareholder model they created to fund the startup, to reckoning with a massive surge of back orders for their popular Antarctique integrated bracelet sports watch model during the boom times of the post-pandemic era, as well as serious health and medical ordeals. Reconsidering all the tests he and the company have faced, de Roquemaurel says he now believes that "adversity gets the best out of you."
Today, Czapek has just opened a new boutique on the historic Quai des Bergues in Geneva on the same banks of the Rhone river where François Czapek himself had his first atelier in the 1800s. In a wide ranging interview, the Czapek CEO traces both the path of the reborn brand and how it has found inspiration in the legacy of the watchmaker that opened what is believed to be the first watch boutique on Place de Vendome in Paris while producing timepieces for Napoleon III and the French Imperial court. Stay tuned to the end for a preview of what complication the brand might take on next.
Show Notes:
1:05 Czapek Quai des Bergues Collection
1:58 Deconstructing the story of François Czapek (The Naked Watchmaker)
4:20 L'Oreal steals French stock market crown from LVMH (Reuters)
5:05 Agustin Almodovar Reflects on His Career as Brother Pedro's Producer (Variety)
7:01 Czapek Promenade Transparencies "Aqua Blue" (Hodinkee)
7:31 The Fratello x Czapek Promenade Transparencies "Viridan Green" (Hodinkee)
8:43 Watch Time New York
9:22 Czapek Documentary - An Unexpected Renaissance (YouTube)
10:07 Rolex, The Making Of A Status Symbol With Author Pierre-Yves Donzé (Hodinkee)
12:01 Battle of Warsaw 1831 (Wikipedia)
13:48 The Story of the Founding of Patek Philippe (Company website)
18:20 Czapek & Cie (Wikipedia) 23:09 Understanding Crowdfunding (Financial Conduct Authority)
24:50 Prospectus definition (Cornell Law)https://www.law.cornell.edu/wex/prospectus
35:54 Thoracic Aortic Aneurysm Dissection (UCLA Health) - we Googled it
39:57 Zegna
41:16 FINMA
42:13 Right of first refusal - definition (Harvard Law)
42:20 Tag along and drag along rights definition (Investopedia)
46:19 Czapek Deep Dive (SDC weekly 104)
49:25 Rolex Certified Pre-Owned
52:27 Inhotec SA
54:11 Czapek Watches (website)
The Business of Watches [40] Hublot Chief Executive Officer Julien Tornare On Partnering With Jeff Koons And Re-Connecting With The Brand's Founder
This week on The Business of Watches, a veteran watch industry CEO who is taking on one of the biggest and most demanding challenges of his storied career. Julien Tornare is the head of Hublot, the irreverent …
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This week on The Business of Watches, a veteran watch industry CEO who is taking on one of the biggest and most demanding challenges of his storied career. Julien Tornare is the head of Hublot, the irreverent and ground-breaking brand controlled by LVMH that's trying to reclaim some of its former glory and role as a trend-setter in industry innovation.
An affable and talented business leader, Tornare has spent almost three decades in the watch world, with Vacheron Constantin and Richemont, and then as the chief executive of Zenith, where he oversaw a dramatic revival and upswing for the El Primero maker. He then had a brief tenure as the CEO of TAG Heuer, before joining Hublot as the big boss in 2024.
Tornare talks about Hublot's turbulent journey over the past four decades, and the spirit that's reflected in the brand's unconventional and outspoken ambassadors. He also takes on the marque's critics, making the case for why the YouTuber shots are largely unjustified.
As for where Hublot is going, that's partly where it has been, as Tornare discusses the influence of Hublot's Italian founder Carlo Crocco as the company reconsiders its legacy ahead of its 50th anniversary in 2030. There's also news of a major new partnership with legendary American artist Jeff Koons, who is bringing his artistic vision to the watch brand for the first time with a series of bold collaborations. We also discuss the role that Jean Arnault, long considered the true watch enthusiast in the Arnault clan, now has with the brand.
Show Notes:
0:30 Julien Tornare (Instagram)
1:06 Hublot (website)
1:43 The Quirky Backstory Of The Hublot MDM (FHH)
1:59 Jean-Claude Biver & The Relaunch of Hublot (IMD Business School Case Study)
4:22 Hublot And Football A Perfect Match (The Hour Glass)
6:25 The Truth About Hublot And How Their Watches Stack Up (Luxury Bazaar)
7:51 Julien Tornare, CEO of Hublot: "Hublot Will Rebalance Its Investments" (Luxury Tribune)
9:20 Nyon (Swiss Tourism)
9:59 Hublot Classic Fusion Original Goes Back To Where It All Began (Hodinkee)
10:14 Hublot Expands The Big Bang Across Every Level (Hodinkee)
11:39 Carlo Crocco (Watch Wiki)
14:04 The Art of Fusion In Depth (Time & Tide)
14:24 Andy Warhol's Hublot (Italian Watch Spotter Instagram)
17:20 Hublot Ambassadors
19:50 Why Hate Hublot? Featuring Nico Leonard (YouTube)
21:58 LVMH Watch Boss Sees Jean Arnault as Best Candidate for His Role (SwissInfo)
24:00 Hublot Spirit of Big Bang
31:40 Inside Hublot's Mission to Turn Its Watches Into Museum-Worthy Art (GQ)
32:01 Beyond The Canvas: Jeff Koons Reimagines Time With Hublot
36:10 Hublot Big Bang Original Soft Touch (Gear Patrol)
39:02 Hublot Unveils Decade-Long Warranty As New Industry Benchmark (Johnson & Co.)The Business of Watches [039] A Market Roundup Of Geneva Watch Days Releases With Tim Jeffreys And TanTan Wang
This week on The Business of Watches, a fresh take on the new releases we saw at Geneva Watch Days and what they might mean for the market. Ahead of a special request summer fondue dinner, Tim, TanTan and Andy …
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This week on The Business of Watches, a fresh take on the new releases we saw at Geneva Watch Days and what they might mean for the market. Ahead of a special request summer fondue dinner, Tim, TanTan and Andy discuss what they saw, what they liked and didn't from the slew of novelties presented during the event.
We go deep into the debut of Gallet, discussing how the entry-level offering from Breitling's House of Brands will stack up against the competition and how it will re-enter the company into the cut-throat $3,000 to $6,000 price category at a time when the Swiss industry is struggling to halt the slide in volumes.
We also talk Bulgari, Oris, Frederique Constant, Girard-Perregaux, MB&F and the latest MADEditions, and why, when it comes to Doxa, you can't have just one. Plus, what the return of a new Northflag (now one word) heralds for Tudor.
Show Notes:
0:30 Tim Jeffreys0:32 TanTan Wang
5:28 Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer (Hodinkee)
5:50 Gallet Revives Vintage Fan Favorites With New "Classics" Multichrons (Hodinkee)
8:44 Business News: Breitling's House Of Brands Unveils New Executive Leadership With Georges Kern As Group CEO (Hodinkee)
11:30 Breitling To Relaunch Gallet Confirming Ambitions To Become Multi-Brand Watchmaker (Hodinkee)
12:55 Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis (Hodinkee)
22:30 Introducing: Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date And Classics Moneta Handwinding (Hodinkee)
30:45 Introducing: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Limited Edition Ref. 103534 (Hodinkee)
32:38 Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39 (Hodinkee)
35:50 Introducing: The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition (Live Pics) (Hodinkee)
41:19 Introducing: Oris' Big Crown Pointer Date Goes Small With A New 29mm Version (Hodinkee)
43:15 IntroducingThe Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 (Hodinkee)
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-doxa-sub-300-ti5
48:30 Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese (Hodinkee)
56:19 Introducing: The Tudor Northflag Returns With Dual Time (Hodinkee)
The Business of Watch [038] Armin Strom Co-Founders And Top Executives Serge Michel and Claude Greisler
This week on The Business of Watches, a visit with the folks running Armin Strom, a true original in the small but increasingly crowded field of independent watch brands. It takes its name and original …
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This week on The Business of Watches, a visit with the folks running Armin Strom, a true original in the small but increasingly crowded field of independent watch brands. It takes its name and original inspiration from the eponymous Swiss watchmaker who was best known for his innovative and record-setting skeletonizing techniques on watches and dials.
Childhood friends Serge Michel and Claude Greisler took over the brand in 2006. Michel, who controls the company, came from a family business background (in another field of business), while Greisler was a watchmaker and engineer. Twenty years on, Armin Strom is a true original in Swiss watchmaking, producing unique timepieces pushing the boundaries of contemporary horology from an atelier in Biel / Bienne, where most of the components are produced, decorated and finished for the brand's proprietary, in-house designed movements.
This week the brand launch a new version of its Dual Time GMT Resonance in a "manufacture blue edition" with a blue mainplate. The watch employs Armin Strom's unique take on the concept of resonance with dual oscillators kept in balance by its proprietary 'resonance clutch.' The story of the development of the brand's take on the concept is a key element in its journey and we explore and unpack that process in-depth in the episode. Currently making about 400 watches a year with a staff of about 55 people, Armin Strom is on the cusp of increasing its capacity and output. The question is what that growth looks like and Serge Michel explores the decisions the brand is making to take that next step.
Show Notes:
2:36 Armin Strom
3:25 Burgdorf, Switzerland (Wikipedia)
5:28 Armin Strom: Exploring Its Past And Present (Fratello)
9:00 Armin Strom's First In House Tourbillon (Europastar)
10:23 In-Depth: Understanding Resonance In Watches (SJX)
12:20 Armin Strom Resonance Clutch Spring
16:04 CSEM Neuchatel
18:02 Innosuisse
20:59 Abraham-Louis Breguet (Wikipedia)
23:10 System 78
25:56 Armin Strom's Groundbreaking 'Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition' Lets You Chime The Time (Or Really Show Off) (Hodinkee)
28:10 Armin Strom Extends Marussia F1 Partnership (Watchpro)The Business of Watches [037] Former CEO Of Bulgari Jean-Christophe Babin
This week on The Business of Watches, we're getting a preview and history lesson of Geneva Watch Days. Born in the dark days of the pandemic in 2020, it was a new kind of watch industry gathering, that …
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This week on The Business of Watches, we're getting a preview and history lesson of Geneva Watch Days. Born in the dark days of the pandemic in 2020, it was a new kind of watch industry gathering, that prioritized access and community over exclusivity.
Jean-Christophe Babin, the former Chief Executive Officer of Bulgari, has been there from the beginning. He tells us why Geneva Watch Days started and why it's still needed. We discuss what to expect at this year's event and what the future of watch industry events might bring.
With some 71 brands exhibiting, GWD has more marques than that other big watch show in Geneva that happens each spring, but it's very different in tone and feel. Using a 'decentralized' concept, brands pay fees based on their size and revenue and the show allows for plenty of smaller, boutique brands to show off their wares.
Open to the general public, it certainly isn't as glitzy nor as pricey an event as some others. Babin says the entire budget of GWD is likely less than the cost of staging and running a major booth at Watches and Wonders.
A veteran who has served as the head of LVMH's watch unit as well the CEO of TAG Heuer, Babin has seen the industry through a myriad of cycles, giving him a unique perspective on where the watch sector has been and where it's going.
Show Notes
0:59 Geneva Watch Days website
2:00 Geneva Watch Days 2020 / 2021 (FHS)
5:06 Geneva Tourism - Geneva Watch Days
9:12 Breitling was a founding member of GWD
10:31 Watches and Wonders
12:45 How Watches and Wonders Remains Worthwhile For Brands Big And Small (Hodinkee)
17:16 Geneva Watch Days Agenda / Panels / Symposiums
19:10 Phillips Geneva Watch Days Auction For Geneva Watchmaking School
22:15 Geneva.com
24:03 Fondation du Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève
31:18 Ferdinand Berthoud
32:00 FHS Statistics
33:40 The criteria for strengthening Swiss made (FHS)
35:20 Swatch 37:50 Casio mechanical watches
The Business of Watch [036] Collective Horology CEO Asher Rapkin And Liberty Justice Center Chairman and CEO Sara Albrecht On Suing Trump Over Tariffs
This week on The Business of Watches, Collective Horology co-founder and Chief Executive Asher Rapkin joins us. He brought his lawyer. While Collective is a Ventura, California-based retailer of independent …
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This week on The Business of Watches, Collective Horology co-founder and Chief Executive Asher Rapkin joins us. He brought his lawyer.
While Collective is a Ventura, California-based retailer of independent watch brands, including Armin Strom, Czapek, Fears, Ming and J.N. Shapiro, Sara Albrecht is the chairman and CEO of The Liberty Justice Center. That's the non-profit litigation firm that led the legal fight successfully challenging President Trump's initial round of tariffs all the way to the Supreme Court of the United States. They won, in a surprise decision that ruled the President didn't have the authority to impose the levies that boosted the cost of importing goods to the U.S., including Swiss made watches. The government is now in the process of refunding the approximately $166 billion businesses paid out.
Of course, the Trump administration found a work-around and immediately slapped on new tariffs and, on July 24, initiated levies of 10% and 12.5% on imported goods, including Swiss made watches. That's the day that Collective Horology and another importer (dealing in exotic spices), filed a lawsuit against the President and various bodies and individuals in the administration including U.S. Trade Representative Jamieson Greer.Rapkin tells us why his business decided to challenge the tariff laws and take on the President and his government while Albrecht lays out the legal argument driving their case. It's a matter of significant economic importance for U.S. business and the global watch industry.
Show Notes
0:46 Lawsuit filed by Collective Horology et. al against President Donald Trump1:13 Swiss Watch CEOs Plot Next Move As US Tariffs Threaten Industry Sales (Hodinkee)
2:24 Collective Horology website
7:28 Forced Labour Section 301 (U.S. Trade Representative statement)
10:50 U.S. dollar x Swiss franc (Xe Currency)
11:37 J.N. Shapiro Watches website
11:50 The Watch Switzerland Can't Make - Karel Bachand (Barrelhand) - Openwork podcast
14:53 Rolex And Richemont Executives Among Swiss Business Leaders Meeting With Trump (Hodinkee)
18:31 Swiss-U.S. Trade Relations (SECO)
The Business of Watches [035] Christie's Remi Guillemin On The Fundamental Shifts In The Auction Market Driving Record Prices
This week on The Business of Watches, we take stock at the halfway point of the year for watch auctions. Remi Guillemin, Christie's head of watches for the Americas, Europe and Middle East, gives us his take on …
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This week on The Business of Watches, we take stock at the halfway point of the year for watch auctions. Remi Guillemin, Christie's head of watches for the Americas, Europe and Middle East, gives us his take on what's driving the interest of the top watch collectors these days. It's a pivotal time, with the watch auction market setting record sales results at most of the top auction houses despite global economic challenges and geopolitical tensions and conflicts.
The last time the market was this hot was in the post-COVID era of 2021 and 2022. Guillemin believes this time is different, and he tells us why references from F.P. Journe and Cartier, and (surprise!) pocket watches, are driving the market these days and how that's a fundamental shift from the hype watch driven boom post-pandemic. He also shows us some of the watches in his personal collection and reveals the grail he's still chasing.
Show Notes
0:36 Remi Guillemin (Christie's website - scroll for bio)
1:00 Auctions: The Five Results That Actually Mattered, From The Spring 2026 Auction Season (Hodinkee)
3:08 Luxury Watch Sales at Auctions Drop 13% After Post-Covid Surge (SwissInfo/Bloomberg)
5:17 Revealed: A unique Audemars Piguet monopusher chronograph wristwatch unseen since its manufacture in the 1930s (Christie's)
5:49 Recent Daniel Roth Auction Results at Christie's
10:48 F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Reference T
14:37 Private Sales (Christie's)
17:23 Tiffany Blue Patek 5711
18:37 Cartier London Crash
20:42 Zuckerberg Wears $900,000 Watch To Announce End Of Meta Fact Checks (Bloomberg)
23:40 The A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase With Gold Flux Dial (Hodinkee)
29:36 Krayon Anywhere (Hodinkee)
30:34 Patek Philippe Reference 130 in steel (Hairspring)
35:15 French Soccer Legend Zinédine Zidane Talks Watches And Why He's Offering His First Cartier To A Special Charity SaleThe Business of Watches [034] Inside Lorier Watches' Acquisition With Lorenzo Ortega And Blake Malin
This week on The Business of Watches, a breaking news story, of sorts. Our friends at Worn & Wound have acquired Lorier Watches. It's a story of success for the New York-based boutique brand that started way …
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This week on The Business of Watches, a breaking news story, of sorts. Our friends at Worn & Wound have acquired Lorier Watches. It's a story of success for the New York-based boutique brand that started way back in 2017 with a mission to make vintage-inspired watches, designed to be worn every day, at an approachable price. In a way, it's a tale of too much success.
Lorier co-founders, the husband and wife team Lauren Ortega and Lorenzo Ortega, struggled with the rapid growth of the small company, and the inability to meet demand for their products took a toll on the two-person operation. They considered winding up the brand, as it were, but a talk with Blake Malin, the co-founder of the well-established content, retail, and watch event company Worn & Wound, also based in New York, set them on a different path.
The acquisition of Lorier is the first time Worn & Wound has acquired a watch brand. Malin and Lorenzo Ortega join us to talk about how the deal came about and what's next for both Lorier and Worn & Wound. Though Ortega spent his formative years in Geneva until he was about 18, it's a decidedly American business story in the watch industry.
Show Notes:
1:11 A New Chapter for Lorier
1:48 Handsome Mechanical Watches For Less Than $500? Look No Further Than Lorier (Gear Patrol)
3:00 Worn & Wound
3:39 Windup Watch Fair
6:10 Grand Central Watch collaboration
8:02 The Lorier Hydra SIII (Hodinkee)
11:05 Windup Watch Shop
23:30 Art Deco vs. Art Nouveau (Rise Art)The Business of Watches [033] Guido Terreni (Chief Executive Officer, Parmigiani Fleurier)
This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the leader behind one of the strongest turnaround stories in the industry in recent years. Guido Terreni joined Parmigiani Fleurier as CEO in January, 2021 …
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This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the leader behind one of the strongest turnaround stories in the industry in recent years. Guido Terreni joined Parmigiani Fleurier as CEO in January, 2021 from Bulgari and has overseen a dramatic transformation in the design, style, and fortunes of the brand founded by master watchmaker and restoration expert Michel Parmigiani in 1996, with backing from the Sandoz Family Foundation.
Under Terreni's guidance, Parmigian Fleurier has been transformed. Striving to convey the concept of "private luxury," the brand has released a series of surprising, elegant, technically innovative, and yet restrained timepieces under its Tonda PF and Toric model lines.
The brand has done nothing less than reimagine and reinterpret classic complications, including the GMT and, most recently, the Tonda PF Chronograph Mysteriéux, which stole the show, for many, at this year's Watches and Wonders.
In a wide-ranging conversation, Terreni unveils the philosophy behind the brand's discreet aesthetic and the structure behind its manufacture and organization. We discuss retail, production, and design concepts aimed at taking Parmigiani Fleurier to the next level in the hyper-competitive luxury space.
Show Notes:
1:05 The History of Parmigiani Fleurier (company website)
1:38 Global Impact of the Collapse of Lehman Brothers (Harvard Business School)
3:00 Early Parmigiani Fleurier And the Enduring Appeal Of Overbuilt Watches (Hodinkee)
8:12 That Time I Wrote That 'Swatch Group' Was A Dumb Name, And What Happened Next (Hodinkee)
16:42 Tonda PF Collection (company website)
19:02 Hands-On: Parmigiani's New Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Is The Understatement Of The Year (Hodinkee)
23:50 Quiet Luxury (EFL)
28:10 The Rise And Fall Of The Hype Watch (Hodinkee)
31:08 Tonda PF Minute Rattranpante
31:18 Tonda Chronograph Mysteriéux (YouTube Monochrome)
41:39 Brand retailers
49:36 Toric Collection (company website)The Business of Watches [032] Henrik Ekdahl (Managing Director, Leica Watches, And Accessories)
This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Wetzlar, Germany, home of the legendary camera and lens maker, Leica. Of course, Leica isn't just an optics company. Since 2015, it's been on a new mission to …
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This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Wetzlar, Germany, home of the legendary camera and lens maker, Leica. Of course, Leica isn't just an optics company. Since 2015, it's been on a new mission to create watches as well, a project initiated by Leica's controlling shareholder, Dr. Andreas Kaufmann, who is not only passionate about cameras and photography, but also timepieces.
The person in charge of Leica's nascent watch ambitions is Henrik Ekdahl, a convivial Swede who has returned to Leica after more than two decades away, spent in the executive ranks of automakers, and, most recently, watchmakers such as IWC.
Leica's connection to watchmaking is not unwarranted. Ernst Leitz, the company's founder, studied watchmaking in Neuchâtel in the 1860s. It was partly this mechanical know-how that allowed him to begin producing optical instruments, including microscopes and cameras, in Germany and to create the foundation for the company that would become Leica.
The latest iteration of Leica watches, launched in 2022, is currently distributed only at Leica stores and online. Less than 5,000 watches are currently produced each year by the brand, but Ekdahl says the watch division has ambitions to grow and to make further use of its manufacturing expertise through new designs and models that draw on Leica's long association with mechanics and watchmaking.
Show Notes
0:53 100 Years of Leica: Event in Wetzlar
2:35 Henrik Ekdahl is the new Managing Director of Ernst Leitz Werkstätten GmbH
4:13 Cartier
4:50 Rolls-Royce
4:59 Mini Cooper (BMW)
6:40 IWC Shaffhausen
8:36 The History of Leica Watches
11:30 Example of vintage Leica watch (eBay)
12:36 Dr. Andreas Kaufmann on watches (YouTube)
13:38 Reinhard Meis (Deployant) 14:37 Lehmann
16:25 Leica Watches
22:21 Leica Red Dot (Red-Dot-Org)
25:59 Leica ZM 2 Monochrom
27:00 Leica ZM 12
27:30 Chronode
28:51 Leica Stores
34:01 Gerd Plange
35:40 Leica Portugal ManufactureThe Business of Watches [031] Roy Davidoff (Geneva Vintage Watch Dealer And Collector)
Roy Davidoff has spent a life keeping up with the time. Born into a family of jewelers and a youth spent in Geneva, followed by a move to Miami, watches have been a constant throughout his professional career …
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Roy Davidoff has spent a life keeping up with the time. Born into a family of jewelers and a youth spent in Geneva, followed by a move to Miami, watches have been a constant throughout his professional career.
A return to Switzerland saw stints at brands including Bovet and Jacob & Co., before becoming a dealer of vintage and pre-owned with his brother and the launch of their business - Roy & Sacha Davidoff SA - more than a decade ago. The fraternal duo gained prominence as dealers and experts regarding the Omega Speedmaster - a specialized section of the vintage market that has most certainly had its ups and downs.
A respected name and authority in the industry, Davidoff most recently served as a jury member for The Cartier Prize For Watchmaking Talents of Tomorrow, where, alongside fellow judges including Kari Voutilainen, were tasked with making selections for creations from European watchmaking students who were chosen for their technical and artistic interpretations reconsidering different ways to tell time.
Davidoff's role as a dealer and collector demands deep knowledge and constantly taking the pulse of the secondary market, shifting tastes, and changing demands. At the high-end and elite level, the market has changed, Davidoff says, as many collectors seek assurance and certainty in modern, independent brands and watchmakers. He's candid, enthusiastic, and dedicated to the Swiss industry, where he's found a place among the brands, component makers, and collectors.
Show Notes
0:53 Roy and Sacha Davidoff, Brothers Since 1983
1:29 In-DepthThe Surprising Origins Of TAG Heuer's Formula 1 Watches (Hodinkee)
2:47 National Association Of Watch And Clock Collectors
4:09 Matthew Bain Inc.
4:20 Bovet
6:00 In Conversation with Hervé Schlüchter (Revolution)
7:59 Rexhep Rexhepi (YouTube)
8:50 Biver Watches
9:50 Cartier Maison Des Metiers Des Arts
10:41 Everything You Need To Know About The Omega Speedmaster (Hodinkee)
14:14 Omega Says Ex-Employees Responsible For $3 Million Fake Omega Speedmaster
20:46 F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance Achieves $13.9 Million – Becomes Fifth Most Expensive Wristwatch Ever Sold (Hodinkee)
28:00 Breguet
32:32 Rolex Certified Pre-Owned
34:05 Cartier Prize For Watchmaking Talents of Tomorrow
39:03 Jean-Pierre Hagmann (Hodinkee)The Business of Watches [030] Q&A Episode - Your Business Questions Answered By The Hodinkee Team
This week on The Business of Watches, we take your questions on the business of timekeeping. We're joined by a swath of the Hodinkee team, including Editor-in-Chief James Stacey, Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich …
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This week on The Business of Watches, we take your questions on the business of timekeeping. We're joined by a swath of the Hodinkee team, including Editor-in-Chief James Stacey, Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich, and Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang.
We're answering your questions and marking 30 episodes of BoW. You submitted some excellent questions, including how changes in 3D printing technology will impact watch movement manufacturing, whether watch brands consider enthusiasts' preferences in their design and release schedules, and what the future of multi-brand watch boutiques looks like.
Show Notes
1:18 F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance Achieves $13.9 Million – Becomes Fifth Most Expensive Wristwatch Ever Sold (Hodinkee)
2:35 Kari Voutilainen
2:47 Marteau: The Heat Wave
4:08 The Barrelhand Monolith Has Landed (Hodinkee)
11:45 Ming Polymesh (Hodinkee)
12:40 Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito (The Business of Watches)
13:10 Peanuts Watches by Citizen (collectpeanuts.com)
15:03 Timex
15:50 We Criticize The Wrong Thing When We Attack Date Windows (Hodinkee)
16:40 Hands-On: Understanding The New Breguet Type XX And Type 20
22:27 One To Watch: Brew Watch Co. (Hodinkee)
27:00 A. Lange & Söhne North America boutiques
30:15 Photo Report: The 2025 Toronto Timepiece Show (Hodinkee)
33:05 Rummele's Jewelers Green Bay WisconsinThe Business of Watches [029] Benjamin Arabov, CEO Of Jacob & Co.
This week on The Business of Watches, a brand we don't talk about a lot on this channel - Jacob & Co. Complicated, audacious, and expensive, Jacob & Co. watches hold a unique position in the industry. The brand …
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This week on The Business of Watches, a brand we don't talk about a lot on this channel - Jacob & Co. Complicated, audacious, and expensive, Jacob & Co. watches hold a unique position in the industry. The brand enjoyed a strong 2025, growing sales and volumes, according to estimates by Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult, bucking the industry trend.
And the brand recently got some high-profile exposure on the wrist of the Roland Garros winner with French Open champion Alexander Zverev wearing Jacob & Co. during his matches and on the podium.
We sat down in Geneva with Benjamin Arabov, the Chief Executive Officer of Jacob & Co., to talk about the brand's operations and strategy. You might be surprised at how Jacob & Co. watches are produced, the size of its production, and how the brand is being impacted by the war in the Middle East.
Finally, looking ahead to next week's episode, number 30 in the history of The Business of Watches, we're planning a special Q&A episode and will gather some of the Hodinkee team, including Editor-In-Chief James Stacey and Editors Mark Kauzlarich and TanTan Wang, to answer your business-related questions. Want to offer up a question? Please drop it in the comments on this episode's page on Hodinkee.com. We're looking forward to hearing from you and answering your questions on all things watches and business!
Show Notes
0:40 Rolex And Cartier Are In Another League – A Deep Dive On The Pains And Gains In Morgan Stanley's "Swiss Watcher" Report (Hodinkee)
1:13 Chopard plans to cut jobs in Val-de-Travers (Le Temps) (French, paywall)
2:59 Chopard plans to cut around 30 jobs (RTS Info)
3:20 Swiss Watch Export Data for April (FHS)
4:35 Jacob & Co.
5:45 CEO Benjamin Arabov Triples Sales In Five Years (Bilan French))
10:20 Jacob & Co. Collaborates On Exclusive Watch With Salman Khan (Watch Pro)
13:46 Concepto Watch Factory (company website)
14:35 Jacob Arabo / Arabov (Wikipedia)
15:17 Astronomia Regulator
18:50 Our Favorite Guilty Pleasure Watches Of 2018 (Hodinkee)
21:15 Godfather II Watch (Jacob & Co.)
25:01 In-Depth: How The Five Time Zone Shaped Modern Watch Culture (Malaika Crawford Hodinkee)The Business of Watches [028] Studio Underd0g Founder Richard Benc
This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the man behind one of the more successful new watch brands in recent years, Studio Underd0g. Richard Benc is just 33, and since 2020, he's built his …
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This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the man behind one of the more successful new watch brands in recent years, Studio Underd0g. Richard Benc is just 33, and since 2020, he's built his irreverent, approachable-priced, design-driven brand to a significant size, producing about 14,000 watches last year.
And he's done it all, not from Switzerland or Hong Kong, but from the U.K. Benc has grown his business with intent, making strategic investments in his supply chain, including buying full control of the assembly and after-sales service company that builds Studio Underd0g's distinct timepieces. Studio Underd0g is now the biggest assembler of mechanical watches in the U.K. and isn't only selling watches with drops and collabs, but is building up stock to make more watches available on its website. Next up for Benc and his brand is a new physical, public, and retail location. The 'D0ghouse' will open in Maidenhead this month and serve as a public showcase for the upstart brand and its operations. It's another big step for the company that comes with its own set of fresh opportunities and challenges.
And Benc gives us a tease on what may be coming next - there will be a new 04Series of watches that will take the brand to a place it hasn't been (mechanically) before.
Show Notes
0:40 Business News: Secondary Market Prices Climb, James Marks Jumps To Sotheby's, Christie's Grabs Cartier Watch Record (Hodinkee)
0:50 WatchCharts.com
1:49 The Cartier Crash And The New Value Of Imperfection (MenWith Magazine)
2:42 This Record-Setting Patek Is The Priciest Watch Ever Sold In Asia (Maxim)
3:28 Visit Brighton (Great Britain)
4:40 Studio Underd0g
6:10 A Minions Children's Watch (eBay)
9:17 Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair
9:23 Inside The EPHJ (Hodinkee Swiss 101)
11:33 Studio Underd0g 01Series Watermelon
13:40 Assembled In Great Britain (Studio Underd0g)
17:10 Studio Underd0g Buys Horologium (Watch Pro)
22:30 The Business of Watches Podcast: Christopher Ward CEO Mike France
24:50 Studio Underd0g 02Series
25:08 Studio Underdog 03Series
29:03 A Fresh Passion Fruit Collab From H. Moser And Studio Underd0g (Hodinkee)
41:27 A Quirky Watch Brand Studio Gets Serious (New York Times)
42:54 Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers Bellwether ReportThe Business of Watches [027] Angelus and Arnold & Son CEO Pascal Béchu
This week on The Business of Watches, we're in La Chaux-de-Fonds to speak to Pascal Béchu, who heads not one, but two Swiss watchmaking brands, Angelus and Arnold & Son. They're both specialized …
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This week on The Business of Watches, we're in La Chaux-de-Fonds to speak to Pascal Béchu, who heads not one, but two Swiss watchmaking brands, Angelus and Arnold & Son.
They're both specialized, low-production, high-horology watchmakers, with very different back stories. While Angelus is a historic Swiss brand known for its repeaters, chronographs, and long power reserve movements, Arnold & Son celebrates the work and innovation of one of history's most important (British) watchmakers, John Arnold.
While quite different in their product and strategies, the two brands share the same parent company in Japan's Citizen Group, and both work closely with movement maker La Joux-Perret, with whom they share manufacturing and office space in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Pascal Béchu is in charge of both marques. He talks about the history and the future for both brands, some recent successes in the form of celebrity clients for Arnold & Son, and a GPHG prize for Angelus. He also discusses prices and the impact the strong Swiss franc and the soaring price of precious metals are having on corporate strategy and planning.
Show Notes
3:55 Arnold & Son 4:36 John Arnold (Fondation Haute Horlogerie)
4:55 Longitude Act 1714 (Wikipedia)
6:56 Arnold & Son Tourbillon Chronometer No. 36 (GPHG)
7:10 John Arnold and Abraham-Louis Breguet (WatchAffinityUK)
7:52 John Roger Arnold (Antiquarian Horology)
8:00 The British Masters (Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry Oct. 2000)
10:20 Angelus Watches
11:07 Angelus Heritage
12:48 Historic Swiss Brand Angelus Is Back And Presents The U10 Tourbillon Lumière (Quill & Pad)
15:10 Angelus La Fabrique
16:59 The Strange Allure Of The Monopusher Chronograph (Hodinkee)
18:32 Angelus Instrument De Vittesse (GPHG)
19:10 Angelus Télémètre Yellow Gold (GPHG)
22:09 Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium Blue
30:00 Angelus Tinkler (released at Watches and Wonders 2026)
30:48 Ed Sheeran Named One of Time's Most Influential And Wears a Patek and Arnold & Son in photos (Hodinkee)
33:30 Arnold & Son Globetrotter
34:27 Arnold & Son DSTB
35:50 Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11
43:50 The Business of Watches Podcast: La Joux-Perret CEO Jean-Claude EggenThe Business of Watches [026] Christopher Ward CEO Mike France
This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the head of what's now the largest U.K.-based watch brand, Christopher Ward. Under the direction of Chief Executive Officer Mike France, the Swiss-made …
Notas do episódio
This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the head of what's now the largest U.K.-based watch brand, Christopher Ward. Under the direction of Chief Executive Officer Mike France, the Swiss-made, approachable-priced watchmaker has enjoyed outsized growth in recent years, due in part to popular and surprising releases like its Bel Canto chiming watch and its commitment to keeping prices in check.
But first, we're joined by Hodinkee Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich to talk about the Audemars Piguet X Swatch Royal Pop collaboration and its launch day, which certainly didn't go according to plan at some locations where massive crowds overwhelmed staff and security and forced store closures.
Show Notes:
1:30 Mark Kauzlarich
1:50 Royal Pop (Swatch)
2:40 Hands-On: The Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop (Impressions, Live Photos, And More) (Hodinkee)
3:30 Sotheby's Sale of the Audemars Piguet 'Grosse Pièce' Shatters Records, Becomes By Far Most Expensive Audemars Piguet At $7,736,000
8:00 Royal Pop Sales Resume After Launch Rush For Audemars Piguet X Swatch Collaboration Forced Store Closures (Hodinkee)
12:05 Watch Spotting: The Watches Of Super Bowl LX (Hodinkee)
16:48 Our Story (Christopher Ward)
17:28 Christopher Ward showrooms
20:39 Windup Watch Fair
22:10 Christopher Ward Forum
26:30 How Christopher Ward Became a £100m Watch Brand (Esquire)
28:29 Mike Pearson (Christopher Ward)
36:41 The Christopher Ward 'C63 True GMT' Adds A Local Jumping Hour Hand GMT To The Lineup (Hodinkee)
44:50 Business News: Christopher Ward To Roll Back U.S. Tariff Price Hit By 29% With Corporate Structure Shift (Hodinkee)
48:47 Business News: Rolex And Cartier Are In Another League – A Deep Dive On The Pains And Gains In Morgan Stanley's "Swiss Watcher" Report (Hodinkee)
49:50 Introducing: The Christopher Ward C12 'Loco' (Live Pics) (Hodinkee)
52:53 Introducing: Christopher Ward Overhauls The Sealander Line With Design Refinements And Upgrades
56:26 Trump tariff refunds begin but consumers likely to miss out (BBC)
1:01:57 In-Depth: How One Chiming Watch From Christopher Ward Turned The Watch World On Its HeadThe Business of Watches [025] Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito
This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with Akio Naito, the President of Seiko Watch Corporation. Seiko's Credor brand, the ultra-premium offering showcasing artisanal creations, unique …
Notas do episódio
This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with Akio Naito, the President of Seiko Watch Corporation. Seiko's Credor brand, the ultra-premium offering showcasing artisanal creations, unique craftsmanship, and design, made its Watches and Wonders debut this year. We talk about Credor's positioning within the Seiko group and its expansion into international markets.
The biggest challenge for Credor, Naito says, will be increasing production for more markets, as the skills required to produce the timepieces are highly specialized and take years to master. We also get an update on Grand Seiko. Naito says the brand has increased its international sales by more than 15x over the past decade, driven largely by success in the U.S. market. Grand Seiko is continuing to update and improve its offerings, including a new ultra-accurate and ultra-luxurious dive watch in a more compact size that clients have been asking for.
We also hear about the growing interest and awareness of Grand Seiko's class-leading 9F quartz movement technology, which is becoming an increasingly popular choice for some clients.
But first, Hodinkee Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich drops in for a fresh analysis on some of the record watch auction results from the spring sessions in Geneva. Pocket watches were hot, Journe was surging, and Patek showed continued strength with a record result for a rare Patek 2523. So what isn't hot right now? Tune in to find out.
Show Notes
1:18 Auctions: The Five Results That Actually Mattered, From The Spring 2026 Auction Season (Hodinkee)
1:34 Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen "The Oval" (Phillips)
3:20 Akrivia AK-06 (Phillips)
3:41 Louis Richard "Triple Detent Constant Force One Minute Tourbillon Chronometer"
5:04 Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 "Polychrome Two-crown World-time", "Doppia Corona Policromo" (Phillips)
6:10 Records Shatter at Sotheby's Hong Kong: Important Watches Auction Soars to HK$414.2 Million / US$52.9 Million
7:25 Audemars Piguet Coussin Tortue (Christie's)
8:22 Audemars Piguet Ref. 5503 (Phillips)
13:33 Credor (company website)
14:22 Interview: Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito On Grand Seiko's Future (Hodinkee)
19:38 Introducing: Credor Makes Its First Watches And Wonders Appearance With Three Novelties (Live Pics) (Hodinkee)
20:00 In-Depth A Tour Of Grand Seiko, Part 1 (Hodinkee)
21:10 Introducing: Credor's Revival Of The Locomotive, A Long-Overlooked Gerald Genta Design (In-Depth, Live Pics) (Hodinkee)
22:53 Credor Studios (Credor)
24:36 Watches And Wonders Attendance Climbs Despite Geo-Politics And Economic Challenges As Brands Make Case For Value (Hodinkee) 25:00 Credor History
28:07 Introducing: Grand Seiko Shrinks Ultra-Accurate U.F.A. Ushio 300 Divers To Less Than 41mm Wide (Live Pics) (Hodinkee)
30:26 Grand Seiko 9F QuartzThe Business of Watches [024] Oris CEO Rolf Studer
This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Hölstein, Switzerland, near Basel, at the peach-rose colored headquarters of Oris to talk to Rolf Studer, the brand's Chief Executive Officer. One of the 50 …
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This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Hölstein, Switzerland, near Basel, at the peach-rose colored headquarters of Oris to talk to Rolf Studer, the brand's Chief Executive Officer. One of the 50 largest Swiss brands by sales, Oris is a true independent, making mechanical watches at fair prices, conveying the brand's unique spirit.
Its history dates back to 1904, with boom times in the 1960s that were kick-started by the tireless legal and lobbying work of Dr. Rolf Portmann, an Oris executive (and honorary chairman today), whose efforts led to overturning the Swiss Watch Statute in 1966 that had prevented Oris and many other brands from using Swiss lever escapements in their watch movements.
Some 60 years later, Oris is marking that milestone with its Star Edition, an updated version of the Star, the first Oris watch to use a Swiss lever escapement after the law was changed. Portmann and Ulrich Herzog (now the Chairman) went on to lead a management buyout of Oris in 1982, which solidified the company's position as an independent brand.
Studer, who has been co-CEO since 2016 and was appointed CEO last month, discusses Oris' positioning and strategy in the current market, where the strong Swiss franc is challenging it and fellow watchmakers. Oris has responded with models that not only offer value to customers but also draw on its storied history and the unique community culture it has fostered. Studer makes the case for why crafted mechanical objects like a Swiss-made watch can deliver the satisfaction and joy that come only from a considered, well-made product, and for how Oris remains committed to making watches and operating in ways that continually express its considered, deeply held values.
But first, Hodinkee editor TanTan Wang pops in to talk about Oris and give a brief debrief from Watches and Wonders, noting some of the highlights from the industry's biggest and most important gathering, including offerings from Chopard and Cartier.
Show Notes
1:45 Photo Report The Sights, Watches, And Style Of Watches & Wonders 2026
2:30 Cartier Celebrates 10 Editions of Privé With Six New Editions
3:42 Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points
3:49 Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 In Aeruse Blue
7:50 Introducing: Oris Star Edition Celebrates A Turning Point In The Brand's History
11:38 Introducing: The Oris Artelier Complication, A Dress Watch Redesigned For A New Generation
16:04 In-Depth: A Visit to Hölstein, The City That Oris Built
19:31 Waldenburg, Switzerland (Wikipedia)
22:19 The Swiss Watch Statute And Dr. Ralph Portmann (Oris)
34:18 Oris and independence with the Bullseye Big Crown Pointer Date(Instagram)
37:11 Prices, Volumes, And Passion: The Business Of Watches In 2025 And What To Expect In 2026
37:40 Oris Calibre 400
39:08 Swiss franc x USD
40:15 The Swiss - Artisans of Time (Swiss Confederation)
42:42 ASUAG (Wikipedia)
43:04 Oris History including ownership changes (Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry)
Audemars Piguet, Ulysse Nardin, Zenith, and More | Hodinkee Podcast | Watches and Wonders - Day 4
It's the final podcast of the fair, and Tim Jeffreys is joined by Andy Hoffman and Jamie Weiss. The discussion kicks off with the official launch of Hodinkee Australia, exploring the region's unique, outdoorsy …
Notas do episódio
It's the final podcast of the fair, and Tim Jeffreys is joined by Andy Hoffman and Jamie Weiss. The discussion kicks off with the official launch of Hodinkee Australia, exploring the region's unique, outdoorsy collecting culture, and moves on to some new watches, including Norqain’s whimsical "Sprinkles" chronograph and Ulysse Nardin’s technically mind-blowing Super Freak.
The team also chats about Audemars Piguet's return to the fair, Zenith's first-ever tantalum watch, the Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveler, and some high-value picks from Frederique Constant and Sinn.
Thanks to Bugari for their support of this episode of Hodinkee Podcast. For more, visit Bulgari.com
TAG Heuer, A. Lange & Sohne, JLC, Chopard, and More | Hodinkee Podcast | Watches and Wonders - Day 3
We’re three days into the show, and Tim is joined by Tantan and Andy to chat about some interesting evening events and the latest releases from JLC, Moser, Lange, and more. Thanks to Bugari for their support of …
Notas do episódio
We’re three days into the show, and Tim is joined by Tantan and Andy to chat about some interesting evening events and the latest releases from JLC, Moser, Lange, and more.
Thanks to Bugari for their support of this episode of Hodinkee Podcast. For more, visit Bulgari.com
Vacheron, IWC, Grand Seiko, Oris, Lange and More | Hodinkee Podcast | Watches and Wonders - Day 2
To cap off an exciting day 2 at Watches and Wonders, Ben, Malaika, and James chat about the latest releases from Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Grand Seiko, Oris, Lange, and a few additional models from Rolex. From …
Notas do episódio
To cap off an exciting day 2 at Watches and Wonders, Ben, Malaika, and James chat about the latest releases from Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Grand Seiko, Oris, Lange, and a few additional models from Rolex. From old-school throwbacks to the dual timers and divers we’ve been begging for, it’s a broad mix of great watches announced this week in Geneva.
Thanks to Bugari for their support of this episode of Hodinkee Podcast. For more, visit Bulgari.com
[Hodinkee Podcast] Watches and Wonders - Day 1 | Rolex, Patek, Tudor & Cartier
It's the first day of the fair in Geneva, and James is joined by Ben and Tim to chat over the brand new releases from Rolex – including the new enamel-dialed 126502 Daytona – as well as Patek's offering for the …
Notas do episódio
It's the first day of the fair in Geneva, and James is joined by Ben and Tim to chat over the brand new releases from Rolex – including the new enamel-dialed 126502 Daytona – as well as Patek's offering for the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus, some curiosities, and line extensions from Tudor as the brand celebrates 100 years, and all that glitters (and is Privé) from Cartier. Also, as a special treat, Ben and Andy Hoffman sit down with Matthieu Humair, the CEO of the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation, for a mini-episode of The Business of Watches. The trio chats about how the fair has evolved for 2026, the local program in Geneva, and more.
Special thanks to Bulgari for their support of this episode. Learn more at Bulgari.com.
The Business of Watches [023] Raymond Weil CEO Elie Bernheim (Plus: Ben Clymer On The New RRCHF)
This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Geneva marking 50 years of Raymond Weil and an in-depth conversation with Chief Executive Officer, Elie Bernheim. At a time when much of the market is premiumizing …
Notas do episódio
This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Geneva marking 50 years of Raymond Weil and an in-depth conversation with Chief Executive Officer, Elie Bernheim. At a time when much of the market is premiumizing and moving upscale, Raymond Weil is leaning in to its value-driven, Swiss-made heritage, producing approachable-priced timepieces that celebrate half a century of watchmaking and design.
Bernheim gives us a rundown of the brand's history, and talks about the "The Fifty", a limited edition version of its wildly popular Millesime that utilizes a new-old-stock Valjoux chronograph caliber from 1976 (of course). There's also a touring exhibition of heritage museum pieces highlighting some of the brand's most compelling watch designs, and, breaking news - they're opening a new Raymond Weil boutique in Geneva's Old Town, giving the company retail presence in the heart of the city that is the center of Switzerland's watch industry.
It's a milestone year for the brand, and Bernheim gives us the insight as to how Raymond Weil has met the challenges and stayed relevant to become a critical part of the industry landscape. Building on the recent success of the Millesime collection, the company is positioning itself for another half-century and beyond.
But first Ben Clymer stops by to talk about what is probably the biggest new watch release so far this year, Rexhep Rexhepi's new flyback chronograph, the RRCHF. Ben tells us how this timepiece raises the bar and sets a new standard for independent watchmakers. He talks about pricing and how the chronograph compares to some of the other most important names in fine watchmaking. It's bonus content on top of his 6,000-word in-depth take on the RRCHF.
Show Notes
1:40 In-Depth: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF) Ben Clymer Hodinkee
2:53 The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF) As Explained By Rexhep Rexhepi (YouTube Hodinkee)
4:50 Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph With Black Dial (Live Pics & Pricing) (Hodinkee)
5:01 First Photos: The Patek Philippe 5172G Hand-Wound Chronograph
8:00 Five questions to Elie Bernheim, Raymond Weil CEO
8:50 The Story Of an Independent Watchmaker Raymond Weil
14:23 Raymond Weil: The Legacy Tour
15:20 Introducing: The Fifty From Raymond Weil Celebrates The Brand's Semicentennial By Offering A Piece Of The Past (Hodinkee)
17:30 Hands-On: Did Raymond Weil Really Make A Watch For Watch Enthusiasts? (Hodinkee)
20:45 Introducing: The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Brings Classic Shaped Watch Elegance At An Approachable Price (Live Pics) (Hodinkee)
21:42 Business News: Rolex And Cartier Are In Another League – A Deep Dive On The Pains And Gains In Morgan Stanley's "Swiss Watcher" Report (Hodinkee)
29:15 As China Retreats And The U.S. Wobbles, Is India The Next Great Hope For The Luxury Watch Market?
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