Satay? Okay!

Visitors to Malaysia never quite understand the value of street food. Yes street food is delicious, but it's also the pillar of the community and central to Malaysian identity. But why?

It's the final episode of Season 2 and we ask just why food is so important to our identity. But whose identity are we talking about? Yours, mine or the entire country's?

Anna Sulan Masing is the author of Chinese and Any Other Asian. She explores how food, place and identity intersect, and how ignoring identities can lead to violence.

Resources and References

Chinese and Any Other Asian (2025), Anna Sulan Masing

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited and supported by the Golden Chopsticks Scholarship, by the Oxford Cultural Collective Trust

Rendang is eaten across Malaysia but it's often described as an Indonesian dish. Turns out, this unassuming nomenclature has deep political and economic consequences.

In the 21st Century, Malaysia is contending with its own national identity. Just what makes up a national cuisine? In post-colonial states like Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia, who gets ownership over dishes like rendang?

Renowned food historian Fadly Rahman's research into the origin of rendang led to him being labelled a 'betrayer'. Turns out, the famously Indonesian dish may not be solely Indonesian after all. Fadly warns of the dangers of national cuisines and the importance of acknowledging shared histories.

Resources and References

Rahman, F. Tracing the origins of rendang and its development. J. Ethn. Food 7, 28 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1186/s42779-020-00065-1

Scottish Exports: Here are Scotland's 10 biggest exports - according to latest figures, David Hepburn, The Scotsman, 13 August 2024 https://www.scotsman.com/business/scottish-exports-here-are-scotlands-10-biggest-exports-according-to-latest-figures-4740076?page=2

The Hainanese chicken rice debate: Singapore and Malaysia both lay claim to it – who’s right, or are they both wrong?, Bernice Chan and Alkira Reinfrank, South China Morning Post, 27 February 2021 https://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/food-drink/article/3123221/hainanese-chicken-rice-debate-singapore-and-malaysia-both-lay

Singaporeans and Malaysians at odds over hawker culture, The Straits Times, 22 August 2018 https://www.straitstimes.com/asia/se-asia/singaporeans-and-malaysians-at-odds-over-hawker-culture

Malaysia’s durian national fruit bid turns thorny as dream clashes with Indonesia’s claim, The Star, South China Morning Post, 19 November 2025 https://www.scmp.com/news/asia/southeast-asia/article/3333329/malaysias-durian-national-fruit-bid-turns-thorny-dream-clashes-indonesias-claim

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited and supported by the Golden Chopsticks Scholarship, by the Oxford Cultural Collective Trust

Cookbooks are a guide into another world. They are cultural artefacts that reveal a lot about who we are.

Malaysia entered the 21st Century with relative political stability. The conflict-ridden post-war years are long gone and Malaysians are now able to slow down and reflect on their own identity. For a country that is so new, what does it mean to be Malaysian?

Toffa Abdul Wahed is a researcher and librarian at the National Library of Singapore. She reveals how cookbooks of the past shape our understanding of cuisine and culture, focussing on two forgotten women: Siti Radiah and Haja Asfiah.

Meanwhile, cookbook author and friend of the pod, Christopher Tan, shares his take on food social media - the good, the bad and the ugly.

Resources and References

There are more than 4.6 million food posts on TikTok alone. Why, then, do we still love cookbooks? Garrett C. Van Dyk, The Conversation 25 February 2026 https://theconversation.com/there-are-more-than-4-6-million-food-posts-on-tiktok-alone-why-then-do-we-still-love-cookbooks-276505

The Ancient Mesopotamian Tablet as Cookbook, By Gojko Barjamovic, Patricia Jurado Gonzalez, Chelsea A. Graham, Agnete W. Lassen, Nawal Nasrallah, and Pia M. Sörensen, Latham's Quarterly 11 June 2019

The world’s oldest-known recipes decoded, Ashley Winchest, BBC, 3 November 2019 https://www.bbc.co.uk/travel/article/20191103-the-worlds-oldest-known-recipes-decoded

The Ancient Babylonians, You're Dead to Me BBC Radio 4 https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/p094pxxd

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited and supported by the Golden Chopsticks Scholarship, by the Oxford Cultural Collective Trust

Char kuay teow is a hawker favourite that has become a staple in Malaysian restaurants around the world. The origins of this dish reveal a lot about who emigrated from Malaysia and why.

The post-independence years in Malaysia were tense and race riots would trigger another State of Emergency in 1969. To quell civil unrest and alleviate poverty, the Government announced the New Economic Policy. Not everyone was happy with this new political trajectory and many left to build lives elsewhere.

Celebrity chef Julie Lin and her mum Lang Macleod share family tales on life in a Scottish-Malaysian household.

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Borneo: The History of an Enigma (2026), Olivier Hein

Embedded Myths of Malaysia’s New Economic Policy, Christopher Choong Weng Tai, London School of Economics blog, 4 April 2022 https://blogs.lse.ac.uk/seac/2022/04/04/embedded-myths-of-malaysias-new-economic-policy/

Putting the Malaysian diaspora into perspective https://cs.stanford.edu/people/eroberts/cs181/projects/2010-11/BrainDrain/Malaysia.html

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited and supported by the Golden Chopsticks Scholarship, by the Oxford Cultural Collective Trust

Hawkers are the life blood of Malaysia's cuisines and custodians of some of the nation's most iconic dishes. Yet few realise the important role that hawkers played in the post-war years when the fledgling nation was on the brink of starvation.

After Japan surrendered and World War II ended, Britain regained control of Malaya. Calls for independence grew, yet Britain did not want to let go of its most economically-important colony. And so, conflict continued and an Emergency was declared.

Academic Kar Yern Chin is the author of Modern Pangs. His research into the politics of food and hunger reveal the enormous challenges in feeding a starving population after Malaysian gained independence.

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Borneo: The History of an Enigma (2026), Olivier Hein

Modern Pangs: The Politics of Food & Hunger After Merdeka, 1957–1969 (2025), Kar Yern Chin

Malaya - Britain's forgotten war for rubber, Mark Curtis https://www.ehm.my/publications/articles/malaya%E2%80%94britains-forgotten-war-for-rubber

How Britain fought a guerrilla war during the Malayan Emergency, Imperial War Museum https://www.iwm.org.uk/history/cold-war/end-of-empire/malayan-emergency/how-britain-fought-a-guerrilla-war

British Malayan capitalism, 1874–1957: An economic-historical perspective, Dr Elsa Lafaye de Micheaux https://www.ehm.my/publications/articles/british-malayan-capitalism-1874%E2%80%931957-an-economic-historical-perspective

Clairmonte, Frederic F. “Malaysia: Development for Whom?” The Malaysian Economy: Structures and Dependenceby Khor Kok Peng. Economic and Political Weekly, vol. 19, no. 29, 1984, pp. 1146–49. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/4373434. Accessed 23 Aug. 2026.

Revealed: how Britain tried to legitimise Batang Kali massacre, Mark Townsend, The Guardian 6 May 2012 https://www.theguardian.com/world/2012/may/06/britain-batang-kali-massacre-malaysia

Relatives lose fight for inquiry into 1948 Batang Kali 'massacre', Owen Bowcott, The Guradian 25 November 2025 https://www.theguardian.com/law/2015/nov/25/relatives-lose-fight-for-inquiry-into-1948-batang-kali-massacre

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited and supported by the Golden Chopsticks Scholarship, by the Oxford Cultural Collective Trust

Nasi lemak is the national dish of Malaysia. But does this humble rice dish really encapsulate the story of Malaysia?

The early 20th Century saw all parts of Malaya and north Borneo under some form of colonial control. But with the advent of World War II, the invasion by Japan would upend the lives of locals once again.

Cookbook author Kalsom Taib is older than the country of Malaysia. She was born during the occupation and shares what it was like in the years before, during and after the war. She also recounts how food has transformed over the decades, for better or worse.

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Borneo: The History of an Enigma (2026), Olivier Hein

Druce, Stephen C and Nani Suryani Haji Abu Bakar. 2023. Brunei and the World Since 1984. Routledge Handbook of Contemporary Brunei, pp. 100-117. eds. Ooi Keat Gin and Victor T. King. London: Routledge.

"Scorched Earth" Policy Hansard Volume 377: debated on Thursday 8 January 1942 https://hansard.parliament.uk/commons/1942-01-08/debates/06602dd3-6929-4a8a-b4da-0c30b4427c9d/ScorchedEarthPolicy

SCORCHED EARTH POLICY IN MALAYA, The Canberra Times, 16 Jan 1942 Page 1 https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/2585976

Operation Sook Ching by Stephanie Ho, National Library of Singapore https://www.nlb.gov.sg/main/article-detail?cmsuuid=cc4da337-3bcd-4f96-bdc6-5210646bdd90

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited and supported by the Golden Chopsticks Scholarship, by the Oxford Cultural Collective Trust

From traditional to contemporary, we look at the other side of Sabah culture.

Continuing on from Part 1, we learn about efforts to modernise traditional indigenous cuisine through fine dining. Raphael Jay Peter Lee is head chef of OITOM, a restaurant in Kota Kinabalu that aims to redefine what Sabahan cuisine is. But it turns out that instilling traditional cultural values into your restaurant requires more than just a menu change.

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Borneo: The History of an Enigma (2026), Olivier Hein

Druce, Stephen C and Nani Suryani Haji Abu Bakar. 2023. Brunei and the World Since 1984. Routledge Handbook of Contemporary Brunei, pp. 100-117. eds. Ooi Keat Gin and Victor T. King. London: Routledge.

The Making of Sabah, 1865-1941: The Dynamics of Indigenous Society, University of Malaya Press, 2000

Titas Chakraborty, Matthias van Rossum, Slave Trade and Slavery in Asia—New Perspectives, Journal of Social History, Volume 54, Issue 1, Fall 2020, Pages 1–14, https://doi.org/10.1093/jsh/shaa004

James Warren, The Sulu Zone 1768–1898: The Dynamics of External Trade, Slavery, and Ethnicity in the Transformation of a Southeast Asian Maritime State (Singapore, 2007)

Barbara Andaya, To Live as Brothers: Southeast Sumatra in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries (Honolulu, 1993).

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited and supported by the Golden Chopsticks Scholarship, by the Oxford Cultural Collective Trust

Almost anything can be turned into bosou. Sabah's favourite fermented condiment can be found in vegetable, meat and fish forms. It's a dish of survival, and a core part of indigenous identity.

Brunei's grip over Northern Borneo weakened in the 19th Century. Before long, land rights were acquired by the British North Borneo Company, kicking off a period of corporate colonialism. To survive, indigenous communities could either play along or rebel.

Dr Richard Gunting is a Murut community leader and founder of Borneo Outback Tours. His home of Nabawan is one of Sabah's poorest districts and both the environmental and Murut culture is at stake. Richard shares his efforts to use ecotourism to reverse his community's fortunes.

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Borneo: The History of an Enigma (2026), Olivier Hein

Druce, Stephen C and Nani Suryani Haji Abu Bakar. 2023. Brunei and the World Since 1984. Routledge Handbook of Contemporary Brunei, pp. 100-117. eds. Ooi Keat Gin and Victor T. King. London: Routledge.

The Making of Sabah, 1865-1941: The Dynamics of Indigenous Society, University of Malaya Press, 2000

Titas Chakraborty, Matthias van Rossum, Slave Trade and Slavery in Asia—New Perspectives, Journal of Social History, Volume 54, Issue 1, Fall 2020, Pages 1–14, https://doi.org/10.1093/jsh/shaa004

James Warren, The Sulu Zone 1768–1898: The Dynamics of External Trade, Slavery, and Ethnicity in the Transformation of a Southeast Asian Maritime State (Singapore, 2007)

Barbara Andaya, To Live as Brothers: Southeast Sumatra in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries (Honolulu, 1993).

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited and supported by the Golden Chopsticks Scholarship, by the Oxford Cultural Collective Trust

A new generation of Sarawakians are breathing life into the burgeoning tuak industry. But can they take this drink worldwide when brewing tuak is technically illegal?

Continuing on from Part 1, we look at the future of the tuak industry in Sarawak.

Arif Abdul Rahman co-runs the Borneo Tuak Festival. He shares how the industry has transformed over the past ten years and the challenges it faces in the future.

We also hear from Martiana Chia who contemplates Sarawak's food future. Can the state live up to its reputation as City of Gastronomy?

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Borneo: The History of an Enigma (2026), Olivier Hein

Druce, Stephen C and Nani Suryani Haji Abu Bakar. 2023. Brunei and the World Since 1984. Routledge Handbook of Contemporary Brunei, pp. 100-117. eds. Ooi Keat Gin and Victor T. King. London: Routledge.

The Rajahs of Sarawak, The Spectator, 1940 https://archive.spectator.co.uk/article/29th-january-1910/40/the-rajahs-of-sarawak

The little-known tree that revolutionised global communication, BBC Global https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rLTixi7pOo

A Land of Rice and History — The Role of Tuak, the Traditional Fermented Rice Drink, in Sarawak, Malaysia by Anna Sulan Masing, Good Beer Hunting, 2022 https://www.goodbeerhunting.com/blog/2022/7/20/a-land-of-rice-and-history-the-role-of-tuak-the-traditional-fermented-rice-drink-in-sarawak-malaysia

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited and supported by the Golden Chopsticks Scholarship, by the Oxford Cultural Collective Trust

Tuak is more than just rice wine, it's a core part of indigenous identity in Sarawak. But can the traditions of tuak be upheld if the drink is commercialised?

The golden age of Brunei ended from the 16th Century, leaving a weakened empire ripe for exploitation. Enter James Brooke, a so-called private individual who colonised his way to become the first White Rajah of Sarawak.

Academic, food writer and poet Anna Sulan Masing talks about the importance of tuak to Dayak culture, while Martiana Chia (or Mars) of The Rasa tells us what it's like to start a tuak business with her grandmother.

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Borneo: The History of an Enigma (2026), Olivier Hein

Druce, Stephen C and Nani Suryani Haji Abu Bakar. 2023. Brunei and the World Since 1984. Routledge Handbook of Contemporary Brunei, pp. 100-117. eds. Ooi Keat Gin and Victor T. King. London: Routledge.

The Rajahs of Sarawak, The Spectator, 1940 https://archive.spectator.co.uk/article/29th-january-1910/40/the-rajahs-of-sarawak

The little-known tree that revolutionised global communication, BBC Global https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rLTixi7pOo

A Land of Rice and History — The Role of Tuak, the Traditional Fermented Rice Drink, in Sarawak, Malaysia by Anna Sulan Masing, Good Beer Hunting, 2022 https://www.goodbeerhunting.com/blog/2022/7/20/a-land-of-rice-and-history-the-role-of-tuak-the-traditional-fermented-rice-drink-in-sarawak-malaysia

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited and supported by the Golden Chopsticks Scholarship, by the Oxford Cultural Collective Trust

Ginger root isn't the only ginger out there. Malaysia boasts dozens of different gingers, some that are only found in Borneo.

Much of Malaysian Borneo's early history concerns Brunei, an ancient kingdom that sprung up in the 10th century. Like other coastal sultanates, Brunei was a maritime trade empire, specialising in jungle products found no where else. Critical to this trade system was Borneo's indigenous communities, which are still thriving today.

Pison Jaujip is one of Sabah's most famous content creators. He runs Ropuhan Di Tanak Wagu, or Bachelor's Kitchen, where he teaches people to cook traditional Sabahan foods. His efforts are helping to document a cuisine that is fast-changing.

Vicky Chong, meanwhile, runs Walai Dahai Corner in Kota Kinabalu, where she runs classes on traditional Dusun foods. She sits down with us to share the stories behind classic heritage foods, many of which are rooted in survival.

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Borneo: The History of an Enigma (2026), Olivier Hein

Druce, Stephen C and Nani Suryani Haji Abu Bakar. 2023. Brunei and the World Since 1984. Routledge Handbook of Contemporary Brunei, pp. 100-117. eds. Ooi Keat Gin and Victor T. King. London: Routledge.

Ji, F. (2018). The Chinese Kongsis in West Borneo: the Rise of the Chinese in Global Trade in the Early and Mid-19th Century [Brandeis University]. https://doi.org/10.48617/etd.853

Charles Spence, Ginger: The pungent spice, International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science, Volume 33,2023, 100793, ISSN 1878-450X, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2023.100793

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited and supported by the Golden Chopsticks Scholarship, by the Oxford Cultural Collective Trust

Where does rice come from? The oldest rice grain found in Malaysia is in Sarawak, but rice likely didn't originate from there. The tale of everyone's favourite grain tells us a lot about Borneo and its people.

In this Season 2 premiere episode, we take a look at the Borneo side of Malaysia. We look at the indigenous Dayak peoples and trace their lineage back tens of thousands of years ago, when Borneo wasn't even an island.

Sharing her knowledge of Dayak cuisine and culture is Livan Lah, chef and owner of LePau Restaurant in Kuching, Sarawak. As a proud Kayan woman, she introduces us to exciting native foods you may never have heard of, as well as the stories behind them.

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Borneo: The History of an Enigma (2026), Olivier Hein

Wirawan, I. G. B., Suda, I. K., Adnyana, I. G., Sukadana, I. W., Winyana, I. N., & Yudabakti, I. M. (2025). The role of Yupa inscription as Yantra in Shiva worship: interpreting stone relics through contemporary practices in Kutai Kartanegara. Cogent Arts & Humanities, 12(1). https://doi.org/10.1080/23311983.2025.2521981

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited and supported by the Golden Chopsticks Scholarship, by the Oxford Cultural Collective Trust

What does an American missionary have to do with Hainanese Chicken Rice in Malaysia? More than you ever thought possible.

In this season finale, we follow Malaysia's story up to the beginning of the 20th Century. The full occupation of the Malay peninsular is in Britain's sight. Spurious contracts, military force and secret conventions render the Malay rulers powerless. At the same time, war is brewing in China, leaving many to seek refugee in the comparative safety of Malaya.

We speak to chef Xianji Chen on the unique chicken rice stylings of Melaka. We also hear from Tan Tee Yong and Sherine Tan, owners of Happy Garden Restaurant in Penang, Yong shares his experiences of fusing British and Chinese culinary traditions and discusses his fears that the future of our food culture comes down to packaging.

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Lee, E., Wong, S.P., Laxman, L. Language Maintenance and Cultural Viability in the Hainanese Community: A Case Study of the Melaka Hainanese (2014). Athens Journal of Humanities & Arts, Vol. 1, no. 2 pp. 157 – 168, https://doi.org/10.30958/ajha.1-2-6

Hoe Kee Chicken Rice - 468, Jalan Hang Jebat, 75200 Melaka, Malaysia

Happy Garden Restoran - 206b, Jalan Batu Ferringhi, Kampung Batu Feringgi, 11050 Batu Ferringhi, Pulau Pinang, Malaysia

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

English Dub by Liu Ziyang

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

There's no whisky in a Malaysian toddy. That's because toddy in Malaysia refers to the kombucha-like coconut drink. Toddy is sugary, sour and a bit funky. But like so many of Malaysia's foods, the sweet taste obscures a very dark origin.

In the 19th Century, the British East India Company continued its campaign to control the Malay peninsular. Powering this new empire, however, required a substantial labour force. But in a post-slavery world, Britain would need a different approach to securing cheap workers.

We hear from Sushil Nair, owner of Nachi Toddy (@nachitoddy) on the importance of toddy to the Indian and Sri Lankan communities. He talks us through toddy brewing techniques, starting a toddy business and the anti-toddy attitudes from within his own community.

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

The Plantation as Subject? Centring the Plantation within Malayan Anti-Colonial Histories (28 Nov 2024), London School of Economics, Sahil Bhagat

Krishnan, P., & Raman, J.J. (2018). Toddy Business among the Indian Labour in Colonial Malaya, 1900-1957. International journal of humanities and social science, 8.

Parameswari, K. (2014). Anti-toddy movement in Malaya, 1900-1957.

Krishnan, D. P. ., Raman, D. J. H. J. ., & Darkasi , S. . (2020). Between Life and Death: Suicide amongst the Indian Labour in Colonial Malaya, 1900-1941. International Journal of Social Science and Economics Invention, 6(09), 351 TO 355. https://doi.org/10.23958/ijssei/vol06-i09/235

Krishnan, P., Raman, J.J., Krishnan, R. (2020). A Study on the History of Estate Tamil Schools in Malaya, MALAYSIA dari segi SEJARAH

Nachi Toddy - Portuguese Settlement, Medan Selera, Portuguese Settlement, Melaka, 75050 Malacca, Malaysia

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

Tried laksa with spaghetti? Or sour tamarind laksa? Laksa comes in many forms, but a classic Nyonya laksa has captured global hearts more than others. Its a dish that's central to the Chinese Peranakan community - a community that found unusual favour in Britain-controlled Malaya.

As the 18th Century rolled on, the Malay world faced growing European pressure, especially with the rise of the British East India Company. They came not just to trade, but to control. Armed with the power of deception, the Company set its sights on the island of Penang.

We hear from Peranakan researcher Dr David Neo, on the rise of Chinese Peranakan communities in colonial Malaya. He also shares his experiences on the extravagance of Nyonya cuisine and its uncertain future.

And Lillian Tong, Director of the Pinang Peranakan Mansion, recounts life growing up in Penang. She discusses the shame of being Peranakan in the 1980s and the sudden revival and popularisation in the 1990s.

Resources and References

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Neo, D. H., Ngo, S.-S., & Heng, J. G. K. (2019). Popular imaginary and cultural constructions of the Nonya in Peranakan Chinese culture of the Straits Settlements. Ethnicities, 20(1), 24-48. https://doi.org/10.1177/1468796819867399

Growing Up in a Nonya Kitchen: Asian Recipes from My Mother (2021), Sharon Wee

The Nyonya Kebaya: A Showcase Collection of Nyonya Kebayas from The Collection of Datin Seri Endon Mahmood (2002), Datin Seri Endon Mahmood

Pinang Peranakan Mansion - 29, Church St, Georgetown, 10200 George Town, Penang, Malaysia

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

Kueh defies classification. Even kueh experts can't land on a definition. Perhaps that's because kueh has influences from around the world, notably from European colonisers.

After the invasion of Melaka by the Portuguese armada, much of South East Asia faced the firm grip of colonialism. By the 17th Century, the Dutch VOC empire had invaded parts of Indonesia in a violent pursuit to control spice production. But the Malay rulers would soon learn that the enemy of my enemy is my friend.

The kueh of today is a reflection of this colonial past. Kueh-master Christopher Tan (@thewayofkueh) shares some of the most fascinating stories of kueh you will ever hear. He connects the wide-world of South East Asian kuehs with traditions from the Netherlands, Turkey and even the US!

We also hear from Noor Azura, owner of Kuih Keria Antarabangsa. She shares her inspiring story of how one kuih has changed the fortunes of her entire family.

Resources and References

The Way of Kueh (2019), Christopher Tan

Nerdbaker: Extraordinary Recipes, Stories & Baking Adventures from a True Oven Geek Paperback (2015), Christopher Tan

Nerdbaker 2: Tales of the Yeast Indies (2024), Christopher Tan

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Merchant Kings - When Companies Ruled the World 1600-1900 (2010), Stephen R Bown

The Batavia Massacre: The Tragic End to a Century of Cooperation (2019), Kimberley Wilhelmina Wells

The Dutch East India Company - BBC Sounds

Kuih Keria Antarabangsa, No.29-1 Jalan Kristal Merah 2, Taman Limbongan Jaya, Limbongan, Malacca City, Malaysia

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

English Dub by Anindya Kenyo Larasti

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

If Malaysia has a national condiment, it would be sambal. Yet as central as sambal is to Malaysia's culinary heritage, it wouldn't exist without Portugal.

As Melaka's fortunes grew, the empire attracted the envy of Europe. By the 16th Century, Portuguese merchants began trading with Melaka, introducing new products like chillis and tomatoes. But this trade partnership wasn't enough and Portuguese rulers soon wanted more from Melaka. And so kicked off a long era of European colonialism in the region.

Portugal left a significant mark on Malaysia's culture, best represented by the Kristang community. We hear from chef Melba Nunis (@chefmelbanunis) about her Eurasian roots and the uniqueness of Kristang cuisine. She shares her experience in keeping traditions alive by publishing a cookbook, which remains one of just two cookbooks specialising in Kristang cuisine.

We also hear from community leader Martin Theseira, who grew up in the Portuguese settlement of Melaka. We learn about the Kristang creole language, a once thriving dialect that is now spoken by just 2,000 people.

References and Resources

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Kristang Dictionary

A Kristang Family Cookbook (2015), Melba Nunis

Stories of Praya Lane

The Melaka Portuguese Eurasian Heritage Arts and Culture Society

The Majestic Melaka - 188, Jln. Bunga Raya, Pengkalan Rama, 75100 Melaka, Malaysia

Kumi Cafe - 21, Lorong Setiabistari 2, Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan, Malaysia

Quentins Eurasian Restaurant - 139 Ceylon Rd, Level 1 Eurasian Heritage Gallery, Singapore 429744

Noel Felix - Kristang Musician

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

Would you sacrifice an ox for the sake of cinnamon? Spices were once the global currency, sometimes worth more than gold. Myths around spices kept the prices high, fuelling spice empires around the world, including in Melaka.

Modern Malaysia traces its origins to the dawn of the 15th Century. After the fall of Srivijaya, Melaka emerged as a fierce trade empire, connecting lucrative markets in India and China. Some of these foreign traders settled in Melaka, married local women and seeded a new cultural group - Peranakans.

The Melaka Chetti community is one of 9 distinct Peranakan groups in Malaysia. We hear from Amuda Pillay and Nirmala Devi from the Melaka Chetti Heritage Asssociation (@melaka_chetti_kitchen) about life in Kampung Chetti and the importance of food. They share their experiences in keeping their culinary traditions alive through a cookbook, which was collaboratively written by the entire community.

References and Resources

A History of Malaysia (2016), Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

The Melaka Chetti Kitchen Cookbook (2023), Julie Wong, David Neo, Melaka Chetti Heritage Association

The Melaka Chetti Heritage Association (Persatuan Warisan Chetti Melaka Malaysia)

The Science of Spice: Understand Flavour Connections and Revolutionize your Cooking (2018), Dr Stuart Farrimond

Chetti Museum - Jalan Gajah Berang, Kampung Chetti, 75200 Melaka, Malaysia

Wen's Kitchen - 169, Jalan Tengkera, 75200 Melaka

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

Do you know Bella Chan? Fishing traditions gave rise to one of Malaysia's most important ingredients - belacan. Beyond cuisine though, belacan tells us a lot about Malaysia's seafaring history.

1,500 years ago, sea trading in South East Asia began to boom and from the spoils, the world's greatest maritime empire emerged - Srivijaya. Centred on the island of Sumatra, Srivijaya dominated trade in the region and extended its power to outposts on the Malay peninsular. Part of Srivijaya's success was its fierce naval force - the Orang Laut.

Today, Orang Laut communities are at a crossroad. We hear from anthropologist Ilya Katrinnada (@katrinnada_ ) about the Orang Laut communities that straddle the strait between Malaysia and Singapore. We talk about the challenges that modernism presents, the dying cultural traditions and how art can bring these traditions back to life.

References and Resources

A History of Malaysia, 2016, Barbara Watson Andaya, Leonard Y. Andaya

Photo Essay - Changing Tides, Staying Grounded, Ilya Katrinnada and Jefree Salim

Air - Drama Box Production

The Orang Seletar - Rowing Across Changing Tides, Ilya Katrinnada, Biblio Asia, National Library of Singapore

Orang Laut SG

Gerimis Art

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

Can coconuts really travel along ocean currents? Maybe, but that's probably not how they spread around the world.

We look at coconuts and Malaysia's ancient maritime history. The Malay and Indonesian archipelagos contain some 25,000 islands, home to communities that were once much more connected. These are the lands of Nusantara, a common ancestor of many South East Asian cultures.

We hear from food historian Khir Johari (@khir19) about the Nusantaran spirit and how different South East Asian cuisines have a lot more in common than we think.

And food writer Maria Stephanie (@ssshteffi) shares her efforts to revitalise foraging and cooking traditions that are fast-disappearing.

References and Resources

Food of Singapore Malays: Gastronomic Travels Through the Archipelago (2021), Khir Johari

Dialogues by Khir

Dari Bumi Nusantara ke Piring Kita, 2024, Maria Stephanie

Gunn BF, Baudouin L, Olsen KM (2011) Independent Origins of Cultivated Coconut (Cocos nucifera L.) in the Old World Tropics. PLoS ONE 6(6): e21143.

Contesting Malayness - Malay identity across Boundaries (2003), Timothy Barnard

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited

There's no such thing as Malaysian cuisine! In the very first episode, we shatter the myths surrounding Malaysia and its diverse food culture. Kicking things off with satay, we look at the mysterious origins of this classic Malaysian dish. It's a story that tells us a lot about what people know, and think they know, about Malaysia.

Hear from food writer and cultural custodian Kalsom Taib, who is older than Malaysia itself. She shares her knowledge on Malaysia's rich culinary landscape and its many historical influences.

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip GIbson, this episode sets the scene for an exciting series that will delve into the rich histories, cultures and cuisines of a very misunderstood nation.

Resources

Malaysia's Culinary Heritage - The Best of Authentic Traditional Recipes (2021), Kalsom Taib

Satay on Bayon Temple Relief - Alamy

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited and supported by the Golden Chopsticks Scholarship, by the Oxford Cultural Collective Trust

Is durian really that controversial? Pop culture will have you believe that durian is equal parts maligned and celebrated. But there's so much more to the King of Fruits than its smell.

We take a look at durian and it's connection to the ancient lands of Malaysia. Along the way, we meet a community that many Malaysians don't even know exist - the indigenous Orang Asli peoples.

We hear from Emily Wong of Native Discovery (@discovernative) about the many different Orang Asli cultures of the Malay peninsula and what it means to be a good ally. And community leader Ronnie Bahari (@ronnie.ronjohn.bahari) shares his efforts to revitalise his own culture, which ironically involves old colonial textbooks.

References and Resources

Native Discovery

Persatuan Kebudayaan Dan Kesenian Orang Asal Perak

Gerimis Art

Pagan Races of the Malay Peninsula (1906), W.W. Skeat and C.O. Blagden

Credits

Hosted by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Produced by Dr Noby Leong and Philip Gibson

Sound Design by Jack Barr

Satay? Okay! is produced by Kopi Productions Limited